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Thanks, I’ll put an anti siphon trap on the bathroom basin. Back to the shower room and the long run. For peace of mind I’ll replace the 40 with 50. Could the first horizontal run and elbow into the vertical stay as 40? I don’t know if you can see from this photo but the vertical pipe...

Okay thanks. I'll give it a go. So now I'm wondering about the bath waste (different room). It runs horizontally for a metre to a swept tee where the basin joins. Then another 1.5m through the outside wall with a 30cm turn to the soil stack. Seeing as it's a bath should that be 50mm too?

If I put a small handbasin nearby could I put an anti syphon trap on that?

Okay thanks for the replies, much appreciated

Thanks. It’s not connected at the shower end. So I’m going down a rabbit hole to try to understand this! I’m reading that on vertical drops water will flow in a vortex (so long as it’s vented), which lets air in and stops the suction effect. Does the open end of the soil stack mean that it’s...

Thanks - would you mind describing what the issue might be. I'm reading about laminar and turbulent flow but don't really understand it. Is it about sucking the water out of the trap? Would it help if the last horizontal run (on the outside) was 50 but the vertical remained at 40? Thanks

Hello I’m wondering if I’ve made a mistake here. I’ve got a 40mm shower waste outlet which runs less than a metre horizontally before it drops vertically for 2.5m, then goes outside for a further 2m horizontal run to the soil stack. I see regs say anything over 3m should be 50mm but does that...

Ah, superbly explained, thank you. So something like this, plus box https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKSG20SE.html As I understand it, only required at one end because the inner earth will be used?

Thanks. I’m beginning to think it’s a job for the electrician as I’m not clear on how I would deal with earthing the armour. One end would terminate in an FCU on the T&G ceiling of the shed (the previous owner called it a summerhouse), the other end would join to a junction box inside under...

As far as I know the original cable came direct from the CU, would that make a difference? How much difference does it make having the FCU in the house rather than in the shed? If you wanted to isolate or work on any of the sockets or switches you would just switch off the FCU. Anything...

Thanks for the replies. The load will be three low voltage lights plus the socket in the garage. It doesn't have anything plugged in there permanently, a pressure washer is the the heaviest load that might get plugged in. If that's too much, it could just as easily run from the house. So is...

Run from the house 3m. From shed to garage and an outside light another 4m. Electrician was fine with me running the cable, there’s a lot going on and he comes in when things become certifiable. 1.5 mm was deemed okay because, if I recall correctly, it had a higher capacity that would...

So in tacking the job in my other post, I’m wondering if I could potentially solve another problem. The garden shed, garage and outdoor light no longer work and the faulty cable was taken out of the CU. New 1.5mm armoured cable has already been run from the shed to the house but to get it to...

Thanks. I could also try to enclose it in plastic trunking but it’d be a lot easier to just lay plasterboard over it.

Thanks. It’s a deep void so I was going to put 200mm on top of 100mm sound insulation. (I’ve since read that it was a waste of time when others did it) When you say ‘better than that’ do you mean better than just having it under the insulation?

Having lifted more board, there are 2.5mm cables, for the bedroom sockets and the kitchen sockets (two separate circuits). No cooker cable, it’s gas. Having searched a few posts, someone proposed laying plasterboard over their cable (which is already lying on the plasterboard), thereby...

Thank you all. Great advice, much appreciated.

Murdochcat - the kitchen will be renovated next year. I have a rough idea so I planned to put cable in position but the layout may change so I don’t want to start fitting them now. EFLImpudence - It is 6A and the cable is solely for the kitchen lights, the other downstairs lights are on a...

Hello I want to put some rolls of insulation in the ceiling void between the kitchen and the bedroom above, primarily to dampen the clatter in the kitchen. The lighting cable is currently lying loose. What is the best way to ensure the cable won’t overheat. At some point the kitchen will...

Thanks. It’s a flat surface. Maybe because it was cheap, although it was the only one that had the right diameter. I’ve left it loose for now, it’s showing more sign of returning into position than when tight.