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I need to get windows for my new extension (DIY). I'm wondering what measurement I need when there are cavity closers? My understanding is there should be a 5-10mm gap each side of the frames. The cavity closers are a minimum of 3mm each side, but they are a slightly curved shape, which leaves...

I think I know what I'm going to do now... I will support the garage door with uni strut (or similar). This may be off the walls at the sides, but I'll use the wall plates if that doesn't work out. For the ceiling, I'll use PVC panels, which I believe are a little under 4kg/m2. If I combine...

I spoke with a truss designer person and he believed that they were only designed for 250N/m2, which is what my designs seem to say. I think they were designed for a chipboard deck and minimal storage. Chipboard + plasterboard isn't far off 250N/m2. I believe trusses are also spec'ed to allow a...

I believe it has been designed so that the bottom chord will only take 250N/m2.

Here are a couple of pictures. The front and back (timber wall plate and steel beam with timber). The OSB is where it transitions to a flat roof. I'm thinking of cutting a square out of the insulation, pushing steel through and then pulling it through to put the other end on timber.

I've just finished a truss roof. I used queen post trusses so that I could store loads of stuff up there. I've now discovered that it won't actually take the weight. Plasterboard + chipboard may just about leave me with enough weight to support my garage door, which makes the storage area...

I've used the plastic tube washers for my flat roof and I'm wondering whether the holes should be filled with expanding foam (or sealant). I've seen somebody say that the air can expand in hot weather, but I have doubts about whether that would cause problems. Of course, a little more insulation...

T&G & glued joints OSB deck (on joists), Alutrix vapor barrier, 150mm PIR insulation (joints foil taped), T&G & glued joints OSB deck, Resitrix EPDM membrane.

I'm building a flat roof and think I have some water trapped in it. There is water dripped out the lowest point (on the outside), which is probably going through my vapor barrier (which should have been water proof). It's hard to tell how much water could be in there, but will this be a problem...

I'm wondering what type of insulation is required for a warm flat roof? I looked at what my local merchant stocks, and they only stock one type of PIR insulation, which seems to be what everybody uses for roofs. It's the 'floor' insulation, and after speaking with the tech department, the...

No. I'm planning to have a timber drip edge (probably 3" x 2"), which will overhang, but not the OSB itself. The fascia etc. can then sit under the drip edge.

Thank you, that's very helpful. It should be possible for me to remove the screws that I've put in so far. Yes, my joists are inside the walls. I can see why people usually have them extending further now. I have metal web joists, so They wouldn't be able extend through like timber joists. So...

Is it really this bad? Does this mean people don't normally fix the edges?

Maybe my question wasn't very clear. My joists have restraint straps. My question is about the very perimeter of the roof where the bricks are. The perimeter will have 18mm OSB, 4"x2" timber and then another sheet of OSB. I guess my main concern is movement. If there are no screws then things...

So does this mean it doesn't need fixing at the edge? I was worried about uplift etc. I will need to fix some timber 200mm, a kerb and drip edge batten, and these would only be able to screw into 18mm OSB if there are no screws into the bricks.

What should I do instead? Glue? I've done half of the lower deck already.

I'm screwing to the outer skin. I don't have a wall plate, but my joists are strapped (every 2m). The OSB boards are screwed to these joists. The joists stop at the inner skin. It's just the edge (200mm), where I'm fixing directly to the bricks.

I'm wondering whether there is a better way to fix my timber. I'm building an extension and currently doing the flat roof. I'm screwing the deck to the edge bricks and then other timber will also be screwed through this. I've been using 60mm concrete screws so far, but if they hit the mortar...

I found this https://www.fixfast.com/skills-hub/correct-washer-and-fastener-combination , which seems to say the industry standard is a "12mm minimum penetration through the underside". I'm assuming that means 12mm into the OSB. I've found a screw/tube combination that will give me 17mm...

It would mean that the ones that miss would be sticking through and I'll be running services through those areas