Search results

Don't you mean 15th or was 14th edition then?

I second the geezer

I do not see anything wrong With the transformer in the loft(Outside zone2), and 12v downlighters being fitted in the bathroom(inside zone 2). I think you are complying with the regs.

You are quite correct that the 0.75mm2 Flex will carry 6A. The main load for the boiler is the pump - Maybe 100w - a mere 0.4Amps. You are well within the rating of the cable, and voltdrop is not a problem for the short run involved in your case. So Yes is the answer.

Interesting :o .........................More Please

Nice One!!!!

Not an argument, but a different personal interpertation of the regs!!! You have made a good decision, but if you fit a cooker switch with a socket, you still need to shift the cooker cable in the CU to the RCD side. In any case I would put an RCD on any sockets installed on the ground floor...

cant quit make out what it is :shock:

IndustrySpark you are correct in recomending that an RCd be fitted if a socket is substituted for the cooker switch in the kitchen.

Read section 314-01-04, it will put you right :D

Exactly what I was thinking. You have got to the core of the problem Bernard! Best technically Correct reply of the lot. Well done Mate.

If the PIR sensor has a rating so it can handle the total load ( Old + New Watts), then all you need to do is, Switch OFF Power and open the PIR light fitting and connect the cable for the new light to the cables that are connected to the existing Lamp. don't forget to ensure that the Earth...

1) You Need to replace the existing fuse with a 30A fuse, Or if a CB then with a 32A type 'b' Circuit Breaker. 2) Connect the Hob to the existing cooker switch, and if the cooker switch has a socket then connect the oven to this socket. 3) If not then replace the cooker switch with one...

Find a sunny day Switch Off all breakers except the one that supplies the cable that you are looking for. Take a power cable/stud detector and search for an electric cable in the areas you expect the cable to be. Cable found, Hopefully :lol: :lol:

And no switches/accessories above the Hob position and a minimum of 300mm from the edge of the Hob/Cooker.

You are quite correct. But then no one mentioned that he wanted a socket at the load end. If he does require a socket/Switch for the hob then he will need a 4mm2 cable Radial for the Hob and it must be fed from a 30mA RCD!!! The double oven will run on a 2.5mm2, even with a socket, but...

Where rrrrrr u getting your figures from JOHNd? Diversity for a cooker is 10A+1/3x(Cooker Full load Current) For the hob 6.8Kw @ 230V the full load current is 29.56A, 1/3 of this is 9.85Amps. So after diversity, the load for the Hob is 10+9.85Amps =19.85Amps Since you can run a...

If these a two separate individual appliances, then it is best to run two 2.5mm2 cables as radials to the CU with a 20A and 16A breaker for each appliance and then install seperate isolators locally. :lol:

You may have to buy a three way grid switch, which will take three individual switches which can be any type, in your case two 2-way and an intermediate switch. You will have to fit this switch on a double backbox. :wink:

The diversity for a cooker is 10A + (1/3 x Total Cooker Amps) 6.8Kw+3.8Kw = 10.6Kw Giving a current of 46 Amps @ 230V After Diversity the Design Load for the cooker is 10+1/3x46 = 25.3Amps 6mm2 Cable is rated @ 32Amps So well in access to what is required to supply the Hob and the...