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You've raise a good point there. As far as i'm aware, the LABC does cover it, but i could be wrong. We used to build new builds, and this was how we did the wiring in them. I did a lot of the wiring/electrical in them too, which all passed ok. BC knew we were a trading company.

Appreciate all your input though! :D

it'll be a split load board with dual RCD. Not sure if it'll be one with a section that's non-RCD protected, for possible usage of RCBO's. certainly agree on internet can only help so far, which the reason for wanting to do work myself, but make sure it's safe and legal at the same time. plus...

it'll probably do the job, but as for how long it'll be before it starts moving again is anyones guess. won't need much to do the job. if you must use no more nails, wedge some bits of old brick or tiles round it to make it solid before hand. this should mean that the solilds are doing the...

Correct, we're a building company, and do all "in house". Till recently we had a spark on board who i'd ask all this, even then, i'd do the manual work, he'd do the thinking (he was the boss, so didn't have to do anything)....... but now don't. So, as said in OP all will be checked by LABC as we...

was writing that last post as you replied plugwash. interlinking the smokes shouldn't be a problem. as they've got a 5way board atm..... i'm thinking, unless they want to fork out to have a lot of work done to update their house. get a board with space in it, and wire all new circuits...

yea, the use of an RCD equipt board will happen. Does this mean we've got to tell the customer that due to a new CU being installed that they possibly need a lot of their house re-wiring/alterations to bring their house up to spec'? off top of my head, it's got 2 lighting loops, 1 alarm...

We've got an extension job at work, shell is up and first fix is about to start. The plans state interlinked smoke alarm's with battery back up to be installed if not inplace already.... (which they're not) The consumer unit is the old style wylex (5 way i think from memory), which looks...

bit much of a long read for bed time material, took a browse though..... can't imagine anyone powering their kettle at home like that just yet. :)

sand and cement is mortar. :) Tapered edge boards are more used for "tape 'n' jointing". square edged are more use when plaster skim coat is being applied. doesn't really matter. does mean you're less likely to see the skrim tape joints! :D (i'm an engine/car man in spare time! :D)

ment more on the scale of powering domestic sockets though. :)

REALLY? Can anyone turely be that naive? Wireless power source? :D

as said, just mortar it back in. :)

replied to your other thread..... 12.5mm boards? 35mm screws will be fine. :)

scutch chisel for SDS?

that's one problem i can imagine occuring, snagging and pulling off a lot of plaster with it. but then again, with them having sockets put in, surely they're expecting a bit of damage?

So long as they can be isolated from accessible area.... fix all your transformers to the under side of the units using short screws? or even to the top side of the back of the plinth. that'd then be off the floor and away from any possible spillages.

if truely desperate to fit them flush...... if you can cut your hole neatly enough. use floating noggings. bits of roof batten cut to 6 inch vertically through the hole screw threw the front of the wall to hold the batten in place, making sure you catch the lathe and not just plaster...

Get a mate to help, and use bigger boards. Also means less joints to possibly crack. IF the ceiling isn't *that bad*, once skimmed, you'll be able to loose quite a bit of the bow's in the ceiling, mid ceiling you'll also struggle to notice it. it's round the ceiling line that it'd be clearer...

30% in northants was the latest i heard middle of last week.