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Cool, cheers man.

I have read mixed views on powerflushing 8mm systems. Is it likely to cause issues?

It didnt really make much diff. Will try the latter suggestion tomorrow. Any tips if its air? Or sludge for that matter?

I have throttled down all the hot ones. Closed LS completely then opened one half turn.

Evening all, Need some advice if you don't mind. I had to change an old radiator in our kitchen due to it leaking. So on Wednesday, I dfained the system and fitted a nice new Kudox double 600x1200 with a danfoss ras c2 TRV. Refilled and boiler kicked in after bleeding fully. Now having some...

Valve has been changed completely to a normal wheel head valve. Still the same. Given up on it now and will put the system back to one large rad in the New Year.

Motorised valve replaced today and all is well again. Well, except the rad in the living room that will not get hot despite all attempts to change the valve, flush it through and balance it. Just need to go with one rad for now.

I moved it manually open and 3 upstairs rads are now hot with the 4th warming. Downstairs all 5 are still cold with hot feed pipes. Big difference is that the return pipe at the boiler is now warm.

Would that likely have just happened as it has been working fine up until this evening. Edit to add, the motorised valve is definitely closed as the lever moves about 10mm then has resistance. Should I move it to the manual open position? Will I need to do anything else or should that start...

Yes, when the boiler cuts off and the pump runs, the flow pipes at the TRVs are all hot. Some of the rads upstairs get warm but not hot, the returns stay cold and then the rads cool down as the flow pipes cool.

Would that help? The return pipe is cold either side of the valve.

Yes, HW seems to be fine. The feed to the HWC is very hot. I should add there is another motorised valve after the pump and after the branch off to the rads but before the HWC

Well, it's in a crawlspace behind the HW cylinder. You can see the two pipes come through the floor from the boiler (which is downstairs in the WC) and one goes to the pump and then branches off to the HWC and off through in to the bathroom and the first rad. The other pipe comes back in from...

Worcester Greenstar Ri

I posted the other day that one of our radiators had stopped heating up (it was a split of two rads from one old one) and got some advice. I tried the bucket test that was suggested and hot water came through. However, this evening all of the radiators (all 9) have now stopped heating up. The...

Not much chance of that in the short term I'm afraid so ideally looking at a reasonably quick (if temporary into summer next year) fix. The feed pipe into the second rad is burning hot but none of it seems to be getting in to the rad itself, hence me asking if a normal wheel valve would...

Ok, so the TRV pin seems to move freely without sticking. I also closed the lockshield on the good radiator (save 1/4 turn open) but no joy. As the living room already has a TRV controlled rad that works, would replacing the TRV on the second rad to a normal valve make a difference do you...

It's micro bore throughout the house, not a particularly large house in terms of floor area so wouldn't think long runs. I don't know about the distribution between other rads though. Thanks for the balancing suggestion, will give it a go.

Heating has worked ok for 11 months, just this last month it's been funky. It's the only rad in the whole house that doesn't heat up. I have just put cleaner in to the system as a precautionary measure but doubt it's dirt causing it as its just that one unit. It's just odd that once the first...

If it's stuck though, would that not stop it heating up when I close the valve to the first rad? It seems to work fine when it's just working on its own but open the valve on the first rad again and it cools down. It's doing my nut in.