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Yeah.. been searching like mad. Sent a bunch of emails and planning on making some phone calls too. I was just fishing here in case someone had a secret supplier :P

Hopefully this is correct forum to post this in. I am trying to find a supply of Totally Teal Alusplash, in particular the larger 3m sheets. Does anyone know of anyone who has stock?

It is, indeed, too long. I could cut the feed pipe down a bit more.. or try this loop idea. How tight can the loop be?

I have removed our old toilet intending to decorate the room and replace with a brand new one. The cold water inlet has this mess of parts and it seems like it could do with some tidying up. Is the best option to shut off the water supply, and replace the push fit with a new isolation valve...

I've removed the small wall mounted basin and have the following inlet pipes to cap off, while we decorate, before replacing with a new basin. What is the best way to cap these off in the meantime? Should I remove the olive and pressure nut and just push on some push fittings?

I closed the valves on the rads upstairs which, AIUI, prevents the water flowing out as it would have to pull/defeat a vacuum to do so (even though it's higher up in the system and gravity is trying to force it out). I did bleed off all the system pressure before I started, using the bleed...

Success!

Success!

Yeah, replacing an old imperial rad for a new metric (1300mm) one. I can't adjust the pipework as 1) it's laminate flooring and 2) I haven't the tools/expertise to solder pipe.. I would like to learn how, but.. I want to move some radiators upstairs and I think I might investigate using push fit.

Yeah, I believe the pipe is 12mm and the fitting takes it to 15mm. I wish I knew how to solder as the dent was definitely concerning me. This is only the first bit of DIY radiator work I've done, and my first fresh olive joint (the other end of the rad I could re-use the nut and olive - I...

Ok.. seems like I just needed to get the grips and wrench on it and actually tighten it. It was a PITA because the feed pipe wanted to fall into the floor.

I removed the old valve and olive (using a junior hacksaw) because the olive was too low on the pipe and did not meet the new valve. When I try to fix the new valve using a new olive and nut it screws all the way up (finger tight).. but can be pulled off the end of the pipe by hand, fairly...

I admit, this came from youtube. Apparently it should prevent the water flowing out, enough to swap over the valves. It seemed to have worked, though it's possible I just drained most of the system out the valves on this radiator in the process :P

Downstairs radiator, upstairs combi boiler, no tanks. I just wanted to check that this order of steps was correct... 1. Turn off combi boiler. 2. Open bleed valve on rad to be replaced, to decrease total system pressure. 3. Isolate all upstairs radiators by closing one valve fully. 4. Isolate...

^^ This means it's the wrong valve in the wrong orientation, right? No idea why I'm not hearing any banging...

So.. If I want to replace the valve without touching the pipes, I need one with a 15mm inlet. Or.. I could cut the reducer off, clean off all the pain, and fit one with a 10mm inlet, right?

When the heating is on, the _other_ inlet heats and this one remains stone cold. The radiator does heat.. but only along the top.

Does this look like a 15mm reducer into the valve?

Bonus Q. The TRV shown there is NOT bi-directional, right? I believe it's installed on the return :(

Is this inlet pipe 10mm or 15mm? I reckon it's 10mm w/ a thick layer of paint.