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yes, the rigid pipe wrenches go up to 60" long

use an old paintbrush to put it only on the brick faces, when depleted it will not attack the mortar much at all.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Markers-Plastic-Digital-Colorful-Multiple/dp/B08W31QWJ4? this also works, you can give them multidigit numbers, also letters are available too, at least they used to be

Well the sink comes with waste fittings that take all the pipes down to a single G1-1/2 threaded connection, looking at screwfix, toolstation and googling some of the plumbers merchants I do not see anything suitable, I found one close to what I need but the minimum drop was about 200mm, I need...

It does seem flaky, but it does seem that it can reduce the amount of calcite in the lime that does drop out, as I have not tried it myself I am not yet ready to say it is actually snake oil. Might as well try it for a few months, they are only quite low powered.

I am fitting an kitchen 1.5 sink, the supplied fitting ends with a G1-1/2 pointing downwards. I want to turn to horizontal to leave as much room for the drawers below. then after that I do not have much drop available to the 40mm stub I need to attach to. what fittings do I need to go from...

If it fizzed with the brick acid, then you need to continue with that, use a stainless steel wire brush to agitate the surface, and it will eventually clear.

I thought it was proven that you can encourage the lime to drop out as aragonite instead of calcite, and the resultant slush is too soft to stick well

the red resin is red hermetite I think, and I used a hacksaw to get mine apart.

I had to replace the heat exchanger, so I dismantled it to find out the cause of the leak, those parts are siliconed together, you will damage them when separating them in my opinion. I found a large pinhole on the inner face of one of the "stainless" loops that make the heatexchanger work...

this was the beam I used, bump on the inside edge, slope helps water run off/out https://www.tuin.co.uk/Composite-Profiled-Foundation-Beams.html The bearer beams were pressure treated just to help it along, the overhang of the roof helps keep the worst of the rain off the base except when its...

I went for slim composite beams under the bearer beams, it still looks pretty good.

mix the sand and cement dry, making sure the sand is pretty dry before you mix them. then add water to suit keeping it quite stiff so that it does not bleed over onto the patio too much then trowel in. I saw that on the pavement expert website somewhere and it worked for me.

Ahh, ok I did not know that you could push copper into the same fitting, that makes it cheaper. Both pipes are certainly hep20. Like I say, just a DIYer, I can manage copper piping changes ok, had many years of intermittent practice, but have barely even seen any plastic piping let alone had to...

New idea, is this correct? one each of these three items: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-90-wall-plate-elbow-15mm-x-1-2-/92934 https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/5970f with one of the inserts from this pack...

Ahh, ok, but on one wall I have plastic coming up to the corner, on the other wall I have copper pipes to connect to, I dont see how 15mm copper will connect to the item you show? I thought the upper item I showed would connect into the plastic pipe, but not sure what goes on the outside of it...

I am now thinking the simplest for me is to connect these two together in the corner: https://www.toolstation.com/hep2o-male-adaptor-brass-spigot/p77983 and https://www.toolstation.com/made4trade-compression-wallplate-elbow/p29554 some jointing compound between them, and then run the pipes...

Hi, as title, I have some existing 15mm pipe, I need to join some new 15mm plastic pipe (it was flexible so it could be routed quickly under the floor when extension was built, now needing to connect to existing pipe The tidiest would be if I could use a 90 degree adaptor fitting, as best place...

hire a large auger to drill into the roots for each post?

you run the risk of slight settlement in the new bits, meaning that after a year floor will be less level. it is unknown to me how much that could happen, it might not be noticeable, but it could end up being terrible. if the ground piles are always adjustable, then you could keep it level as...