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I wonder how many original solid panel doors have been mistakenly binned for being ugly, after having the hardboard treatment?

I've managed to compress 30mm RWA45 down to 25mm successfully, but I was using 15mm plasterboard.

If the concrete pad slab underneath is large enough, it will a) spread the load better over the not and b) allow for some lateral movement. Using adjustable legs and monitoring the levels, you'll be able to current for any slight movement. The main thing is to make sure it's well...

It doesn't work in isolation, what other controls do you have?

At about 40kg each, I don't blame you. Gyproc plank is another good option, 19mm and easy to handle at 8x2

It shouldn't make a difference really. Extra plasterboard will help though. 2 layers of standard PB will trump a single layer of the acoustic stuff.

The rockwool should compress 11mm. If you get the very dense acoustic stuff then that hardly has any give in it, but RWA45 will be ok. The number refers to the weight per cubic metre, which indicates density.

Erm, so, the correct word should be repudiate.

This thread is titled 'water ingress' Perhaps it should say 'water outgress'

2005, it's PM Blair's fault, and I bet it will get worse.

These pictures are of the outside, have you got any of the inside?

At the end of the day, a frozen pipe is a frozen pipe. Winter is to blame.

Did the initial leak magically resolve itself? Did you have any evidence of this? Pipework isn't designed or installed with the notion that it should be allowed to freeze up.

It's irrelevant what the topic is, as nothing is ever discussed seriously in here anyway, it's just mostly name calling. It's like a school playground in here.

Timber frame garden room? If so, I'd just go with shuttered pads with an adjustable leg between it and base of the structure. Or even use council pavers on a bed of mortar, or make a sandwich using a couple of them.

Just try and put an inspection elbow on any 90⁰ bends.

How deep is the MOT?

It is a problem that you are creating. You are using using a load of 4" joists, to lower a floor by 8" to incorporate a 32mm pipe. There must be a more efficient way to do it, how about fixing 50mm battens to the underside of the existing joists to incorporate the pipe? Or you could probably...

Pointless waste of time. Creates a problem to solve a problem. Build a raised cupboard over the slope.

If it's l&p and boarded over, there's not much point in replacing it unless it's in bad shape.