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The only way to distinguish which is the feed is to test it with a volt stick or similar. If the switch is pressed off the one that stays live is the power supply, I can't see what purpose the Red strap is providing, maybe someone else can.

Judging by the charring on the blue cable the Neutral on that circuit looks like it was loose too. I always prefer Crabtree isolators, they look a bit big though.

Has the circuit you're going to work on got RCD protection? Are you going to supply a permanent live to the fan for an overrun / humidity sensor?

In my line of work in Highway maintenance I often see Voltages in excess of 250 Volts. They do tend to be in rural areas fed via poles. occasionally when too high I have to report it as some equipment are effected by the upper tolerance

Needs a photo

It's appallingly bad! Are the tails going through different holes or is it a stuffing gland? Is the Board Metal?

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There's no point having two RCD/RCBOs in series unless the upstream one is Time delayed. It's better to have localised RCD/RCBO imho. Does the Outbuilding actually need a consumer unit is a question I'd be asking, what will be used inside it power wise? I agree with the above comment(s)...

In the first instance I'd check the circuit neutrals are in the correct place

I'm not suggesting anything it was merely a comment to show a pitfall.

I was working in Exeter a number of years back on a Mobile site that had metal trunking. I went to remove one cover to see if I could run a power cable for a 4G cabinet and it blew a fuse as one single 2.5mm had a tiny bit of insulation nicked and as I turned the screw it shorted out and took...

Looks like the supply cable is only Single insulated so maybe whoever installed the Trunking did it to provide an extra layer of protection but does seem a bit extreme, unless there are other cables entering the DB from below but it doesn't look that way.

Has the shower got another protective device not shown in your photo then?

You need to find the power rating of whatever you're trying to connect. As long as it doesn't overload the circuit it should be ok. It Should have RCD protection outside, has it got that anywhere?

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Am I missing something here? It says 16A on that plug at present however the Unit only seems to draw 4.6A

Well the clips will be 120 degrees from each other, it's hard to see how they hold the glass in place though. Are there slots for the clips on the light fitting anywhere it looks like I can see two from the photo?

Anything below 30A is going to be awful in Winter when the ambient water temperature is a lot lower. Do you not own the property?

Is that junction box actually part of a Ring? If the answer is yes you could remove that completely and replace it with surface backbox and a single socket. This would make it easier to remove the Dishwasher completely for any future maintenance a 13A fused connection unit could be suitable it...

Actually you're right John, needs three x three way Wagos