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1. As you know, that is an unvented hot water cylinder. It should be serviced annually, and only those with a current "G3" certificate may work on them. 2. Inside the white enamelled cylinder you can see is the actual cylinder, in this case of stainless steel. Between the two is a pretty...

Looks like a Thomas Dudley Turbo 44 two part syphon. If so, it can be separated to replace the diaphragm washer without taking the cistern off the bowl. Check it is a Turbo 44, and if so look at...

1. Have a look at...

1. Looks like a union fitting valve. (Union rather than compression) Nothing like as common as they used to be but you can still get them. E.g. Screwfix 901FW 2. Sounds as if he didn't know much plumbing. Should have been able to close both valves, unscrew then from the radiator tails and...

1. Vertical then out would be OK. 2. Overflow pipe should be of larger diameter than inlet. Its normally 21.5mm plastic. 3. If you can't use larger pipe (I haven't read your original posting) you could use a flow limiting isolation valve such as BES item 17527. Note that you have to buy the...

1. If they are on the same fuse or circuit breaker, then if both are on together its is bound to blow. Each will be 3 kW, total of 6 kW or around 26s. 2. If they are wired separately to different fuses / circuit breakers, they should be OK. 3. When you say they have no power going to them, do...

1. The best way is to solder all the joints at one time in sequence. 2. However, if you prefer to do it in stages, which I can understand, then: 2.1 Solder the street elbow to the pipe, allow it to cool. 2.2 Re-clean the straight part of the street elbow as it will have oxidised. 2.3 Solder the...

1. Check the pressure requirements of the new tap. If its designed for high pressure supplies it may not suit as you have low pressure. 2. High pressure taps (generally requiring 1.0 bar or more) do not necessarily need 3/4" connections. 3. Low pressure taps (generally ones which work off 0.2...

1. The internal area of standard 15mm copper pipe is approximately 145 sq.mm. 2. The internal area of a 0.7mm diameter insert is approximately 74 sq.mm 3. Whether or not it matters depends on your system. There are plenty of systems running on 10 mm microbore quite satisfactorily. 4. No...

1. Not a terribly difficult job. 2. However: 2.1 Needs a base to sit on. 18mm marine ply a little larger than the base of the new cistern. NOT MDF 2.2 Getting the new one in (and the old one out) can be difficult to impossible depending on loft hatch size.

1. As others have said above, renew the syphon. 2. If you use a Dudley Turbo 88 syphon, you will not in future have to separate the pan and cistern to renew the diaphragm. 3. Get the adjustable model and you can set it to the same height as your original.

There should be a line marked in the ceramic of the back of the inside of the cistern. If the water is not filling up to this mark, then less than the standard 6 litres will be flushed, which could be your problem. Adjust the height of the float valve so that the cistern does fill to this line.

Monument do a "Stickfast" washer to help in such situations. See BES Item No. 19700. However, if it really requires their installation tool it's not worth it for a one off.

1. Not sure if it helps, but you don't need the triangular thing with a ceramic sink, they are only really useful with stainless steel. 2. I'd try a brass back nut (assuming your one is plastic) and omit all the other washers. The seal is made between the O ring in the base of the tap (above...

1. Pressure is what drives the water through the pipes. One bar is roughly equal to the pressure at the bottom of a column of water 10 metres high. If the pressure is inadequate, then the amount of water flowing will be insufficient. 2. Flow is usually measure in litres per minute (lpm). It...

Assuming you mean an unvented hot water system: 1. Minimum cold water mains pressure of 2.0 bar. Dynamic = pressure at 1 mains outlet with another mains outlet running. 2. Minimum 20 litres per minute flow rate. Measured "open pipe", i.e. with no restrictions in place. 3. The installer MUST...

1. There is likely to be a stop cock between the water suppliers pipes and the run to your property, usually situated just inside your boundary. Particularly likely if you have a water meter. 2. It is generally possible to freeze the cold mains pipe. However, you need to let the plumber know...

1. The filling loop may be elsewhere, e.g. under the kitchen sink? 2. Some Vaillants have a built in filling loop. Has two grey plastic handles, just underneath the boiler.

1. Check the pressure of your incoming mains cold. This requires a pressure gauge like Screwfix item 82412. Attach to a washing machine outlet or garden hose outlet. 2. If the pressure is less than the maximum for the shower (most will take 3 bar): 2.1 Take the head off the hose and run the...

1. So far as I know you can't get aluminium self tappers. The metal is too soft to cut a thread. 2. If you mean 3.5 mm aluminium machine screws, search for Aluminium M3.5. Doubt they'd be strong enough. 3. Short of Titanium, which is very expensive, most metals will react with aluminium.