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1. Plumber's Mait is not the right sealant for what you are trying to do. 2. Personally, I'd use Loctite 55. Screw it up tight, then you can back it off up to 1/3 turn and it should still seal. Read and follow the instructions on the packaging. In particular, you are advised to roughen up the...

I'd drain the pipe with the offending Tee in it. Then: 1. Remove all traces of Milliput, and solder a cap over the microbore pipe stub. OR 2. Cut through the Tee just above and just below the microbore outlet, making sure the cut was straight. Sweat off the remaining parts of the Tee and...

1. Cold tap - Handle should just pull off. If it's on tight, try pouring very hot water over it to expand the handle, then carefully pull. 2. Hot tap. Needs more force. Put spanner on hexagon nut with spanner handle upwards. Push top of spanner handle back towards wall. If very tight (and...

Looks to be leaking from the tap's gland nut (small hexagonal nut below handle). Look for "sealing gland nut" on the internet for ways of stopping it.

Use a manual air valve, e.g. Screwfix item 52451

Another possibility is that there is a Thermostatic Mixing Valve (TMV) fitted to the hot feed to the shower. A TMV mixes cold water with hot to ensure the temperature can't go above a certain point, usually 38 degrees. These have a habit of failing. Likely to be fitted to properties built in...

1. The (three?) grub screw near the tiles hold the body of the shower to a backplate screwed to the wall. 2. The nut on top just blanks off the water outlet to a (normally) rigid riser rail. 3. I'm not sure about the following, but likely to be: 3.1 Big nut holds the works to the large round...

1. Presumably you have a hot water cylinder. Does it not have an immersion heater? 2. Personally prefer soldered copper as it is more resistant to rodent attack. However, if underfloor and risk of rodents low, I'd prefer plastic push-fit to compression fittings. 3. Presumably you will come up...

1. Never heard of Sauber as a manufacturer and as far as I can see they have no web site of their own. 2. Reginox are a UK firm (though I don't know where their products are made. Have used their sinks, which are OK.

1. The silicone rubber washer at the base of the tap compresses when installed to provide a seal. This tightening may be what is causing the tap to become stiff. 2. Are you sure the seating depth of the insert you have is correct? 3. You could try installing it then backing off by 1/2 turn...

It is permissible to wire to an UNSWITCHED socket, although as Madrab points out, a single fused spur for all boiler connected electrical items is by far the best option. The reason for an unswitched socket is that the plug must be removed to disconnect the boiler, and this disconnects both...

Just re-pressurise the system in the normal way, bleeding the new radiator in the process. How to re-pressurise will be in the boiler instructions, probably available on-line if you haven't got a copy.

That end cap (very thin disc at outside end of valve) unscrews. Or rather, it is meant to. In my experience they inevitably snap as the central screw is tiny. I drill and countersink them then use a screw of the same size to secure the end cap back to the valve.

1. Sink taps are almost invariably 1/2" BSP (generally equivalent to G1/2). 2. The size bears a strange relationship to the physical measurement. So little point in taking it apart.

1. There is little point using a metric ruler on plumbing fittings. They are nearly all still Imperial, and the nominal sizes bear an unusual relationship to the physical size. 2. Nearly all toilet inlet valve shanks are 1/2" British Standard Pipe (BSP) thread although a few are 3/8" BSP. If...

If that's on a bath, Screwfix Item No. 20140. If its on a basin, Screwfix Item 32730

1. Assuming the pipes are copper, there is no normal fitting to block them internally. Same is true for plastic pipes. 2. The smallest caps are solder feed. 3. My approach with readily available fittings would be: 3.1 Cut the pipe level with the concrete. Multi-tool or similar 3.2 Drill out...

1. The OP has a thermal store, not a standard hot water cylinder. 2. The main volume of the cylinder holds water at around 80 degrees. 3. When hot water is drawn, cold mains water is passed through a coil inside the cylinder (or an external heat exchanger) and picks up heat. 4. The outgoing...

Where to start? 1. One or both immersion heater thermostats (ordinary or overheat ones) off? 2. Blender valve on output from cylinder faulty? 3. PCB faulty? 4. Neutral fault on immersion connection(s)?

Try pulling the fitting up while tightening (NOT loosening) the nut. Might be enough to get the piece underneath to stop rotating. If you loosen the top part, the bottom may come off and drop into the void.