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1. The silver coloured braided hose is your filling loop. 2. It appears to have only one valve, the black handled one on the left. This is currently closed. 3. To re-pressure: 3.1 Turn black plastic handle on filling loop valve 1/4 turn. When handle is parallel with pipe, valve is open. 3.2...

Just be careful. It looks as if your existing one has an isolation valve at the non-WC end. You will have to turn the water off before removing it or you will get very wet. I'd replace with a stand alone isolation valve so that you can replace the flexi without turning the water off...

1. Half inch in plumbing doesn't mean half inch. It refers to 1/2" British Standard Pipe (BSP) size, and the outside diameter of a 1/2" BSP male thread is a fraction under 21 mm. 2. Most WC inlet valves have threaded shanks of 1/2" BSP. A small number have 3/8" BSP, but yours looks like 1/2"...

1. Provided the existing radiator is not short of hot water flow, no reason why not. 2. Therefore, if the radiator is not abnormally large (unusual for a bathroom) and is either: 2.1 Directly connected to the 22mm "spine" of your central heating system. OR 2.2 Is only connected to 1 or 2...

I would read this as: Protects the boiler's internal parts but no guarantee on anything outside the boiler.

Likely to be the boiler firing up to pre-heat water or as an anti-freeze measure. What boiler (make and model)?

1. Electric showers have a manufacturer provided maximum operating pressure. This is often 5 bar. If your water pressure is higher than this I would consider installing a pressure reducing valve on the incoming main. 2. Otherwise, use a water hammer arrestor such as Screwfix 905FA as close...

1. Generally the valves do not screw into the female threaded radiator inlets. A male threaded "tail" is screwed into the radiator, sealed with PTFE or some other way (plenty of internet advice). 2. The valves are then connected to the tails, with either compression fittings or union fittings...

1. Measure the centre to centre distance between radiator and valve, then see if two (each end) 45 degree street elbows would bridge the gap. Have a look at BES item 7991. You will need to be able to solder or get someone else to do it. 2. I trust you have kept the radiator tails which from...

They usually tilt up at the front when fully opened, then you can lift the drawer base off.

1. Many plumbing fittings (but not pipes!) are still imperial, based round the nominal internal bore of the pipes they were designed to suit. 2. Thus you frequently get 1/2" British Standard Pipe (BSP), 3/4" BSP. You can also get, as you have, a continental manufacturer using 3/8" BSP. 3. The...

1. Make sure there is no water in that vertical pipe. 2. Unscrew the lower white plastic nut, leaving it on the pipe or putting it back before 5. below. . 3. Inside, there should be the following: 3.1 A rubber washer with a conical shape to it. 3.2 An ordinary fibre washer. 4. Remove rubber and...

1. Whether or not you can do what you want depends on the type of system you have. If its gravity hot water and pumped central heating you may need to change to a C plan system with a motorised valve. 2. If the timer is built into the boiler, you will probably need to set that programmer /...

Rental flat = landlord problem. He/she has an obligation to provide hot and cold water services and heating (as well as various other services). I'm a landlord (well, my wife is, I just do the work), and my reaction would be to change the whole bar shower. New Bristan is about £110, and can...

1. The olive has been crushed into the pipe. In my opinion it will never seal properly again. 2. You need to: 2.1 Drain down the system. 2.2 Clean the paint off the pipe. 2.2 Cut the pipe below the level of the damage. Cut it square, preferably with a pipe slice, and deburr inside and out...

1. Don't try and reuse the old pipes into the tap. Unlikely they are the same thread. 2. The key thing is to get the flexis to fit without their being twisted or crushed. 3. If you can I'd measure the end of the flexis which screw into the tap, and get shorter flexis with the same thread...

1. Wouldn't have thought trap depth was an issue. The pumps are pretty powerful. 2. If the flexible waste hose from the washing machine is not brought up to just below the level of the work top to fall again into the trap, water may be caught in the hose as it never reaches the trap, and falls...

Neither. New tap, new tap connector, new tap connector washer = no need for paste. You couldn't use PTFE anyway.

1. If it is not copper it will be steel (attracts magnet) or lead. 2. In either case it can be moved. As Madrab states you will need to get a Gas Safe registered engineer to move it. He / she will do any necessary gas volume calculations to allow for the new pipe and / or route. 3. If it's...

1. The version with the white wire is the 28mm version. I think the new one you have is a 22mm type. If so you will need some pipework modifications. 2. Is the white wire on the old one joined to any other wire in the wiring centre, or is it just isolated and unconnected? If the latter you...