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First it's not exactly unusual for a modern wc not to clear first flush However that soil connection is absolutely dreadful I take it the contractor arrived on horseback? As above loose the flexi id have probably cut clay under collar then a suitable adaptor 90°bend and solid pipework...

Your really over thinking it! As above if they are outlets they are under next to no pressure. Use loctite 55 when it starts getting tight and in correct orientation stop. You can 'back ' loctite 55 up to quarter turn even on pressure connections.

I've recently fitted a 450 x 250 chrome flush pipe made by bristan (heritage) cost over £40 but quality was stunning.

Assuming face's are flat just change washers either rubber fiber or we now use kevlar washers on flat faced joints. Don't over tighten.

You must have found same data sheet I have! Agreed may have been inadvertently set for gas oil at some point. The data sheet says flue gas temperature at test point presumably boiler test point. From memory on the camray 5 there was often a large difference from temperature at boiler test...

Try shower doctor.com I wish you luck with valve been from Wickes. We always use someone like Bristan or Mira for brassware way more chance of spares been easily available.

Where are you measuring flue gas temperature ? What type of flue?

Just dug out my old commissioning data for 150/200 Mid range (50kw) nozzle 1.50 x 60° W 130psi 11.5 co2 flue gas at test point 225/235C That's for kero. Even on lowest output it says 1.35 x60° W nozzle at 120psi 11co2 and 210/220 flue temperature So your flue temperature look very low .

As above make rad look right the heating water won't care. Back in mist's of time I fixed rads dead level then get told they were out! off course they weren't but floor/window cill was out of level. Since then thousands of rads later I haven't a clue if they are actually level but they do...

We have used 4 port blending valves (with motorised thermostatic control) to achieve correct return temperatures. Basically boiler flow in to blender , heating flow out, system return in, return to boiler . One system we did with a 70kw Grant boiler had a requirement from customer of a max...

Another vote for some sort of leak sealant Needs to be flushed out!

I'd definitely be getting shut of the aejec and using a more conventional H section. No reason you can't use something like tectite classic fittings if you don't fancy soldering. Couple of pictures of a removed Airjec unfortunately fairly typical of how they get, causing pumping over problems.

First if your the third or fourth plumber in a short time I'd be very wary . As above return temperatures on most oil boilers need to be above 40c. We have achieved this in past using temperature blending valves to keep return temperature up.

Yours is one of the older Grant combi's as it got the 3 dreadful auto air vents on. We now swap them for manual air valves. The combi's can be tricky to clear of air and every time you drain boiler your back to square one. If the water in boiler if dirty it's the same in rest of system . I would...

Assuming all rad valves are fully opened turn off all radiators that are working to force circulation through non working rads. Make sure no air in rads if a sealed system it's up to correct pressure.

That panel is old enough for that to be a salt glazed collar coming through floor. The joint is almost certainly yarn with sand and cement finish that is normally rock hard! If you want to paint it maybe remove lose stuff bit of filler and paint. Also it looks like pan is cracked other side of...

The one you tagged B A is return port C is pressure adjustment don't touch without a pressure gauge Connected to B and combustion analysis equipment to make sense of any adjustments.

No issues when in domestic premises, though we always check condition of water in existing systems treat as needed and always add inhibitor. Did a series of large restaurants at one point, did have trouble with rads rusting in toilets partially the gent's! Cured by fitting stainless steel rads.

I live near enough to the Stelrad factory to have been round it a number of times and collected rads from there distribution center . Henrad is Stelrad just different package. Apparently Stelrad own factory's in Turkey that turns out other rebranded stuff.

Henrad are Stelrad radiators re badged for independent merchants. Panel rads are finished by a electrostatic process where the paint finish is 'baked' on . Unfortunately rads do rust in bathrooms it's a damp place! I'd be taking care with the one that's bubbling may just be a pinhole behind...