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dont even attempt joinin a coax with a 5A junction box... unless you want no signal/loads of interferance. even a cheap splitter is better. you can split the cables but for the sky, but its not so easy if its goin to the dish. altho if there will be no other sky box to the other outlet then you...

look on your areas greed camera website

talivan force have a map of their locations round here. just a shame they dont give them to the drivers. recently, theyve been parked some 15M from a r/a in a 50 zone. facing the r/a. not even i can go round it at 30!

no, it might be possible to replace them with MCB's, which are completly different from RCDs. an MCB (and fuses) give overload protection, RCDs give earth leak protection

lights up without a jumper

it uses 21A. now think about it. 20A could trip. 32A is next up. so why the hell would you go to 40A for a 21A load?

could be any colour. altho its common for green and white. youll soon find out once you remove the PIR cover

definatly. and it usually gets a good hold of the backbox aswell. tip if you foam/plaster a socket in. push 2 wall plugs into the filler. easier than drilling a hole later to add a screw if it doesnt hold properly

why not just use the polyfiller?

are there any legal requirements to trailer advertising. i.e locations etc? have had a look on net but cant find any definate answers, but there are a lot of companies offering trailer advertising

they wont be too bothered about polarity, since 230V is between phase and neutral to the appliance. its just that it will switch the now neutral and not phase which could cause a shock/death. its not something that should be left untreated. or, it could just be the socket the plumber tested...

so, its prefectly fine for images on the front of a newspaper that any kid can see walking to school past newsagents etc etc, but its too 'un-pc' to have on a website Moderator 4 what a newspaper does is up to them. those are the rules of this site.

7mm hole, brown wall plugs and 2" 10's, or maybe 2 1/2"

long nose pliers might get it out. otherwise you might have to drill it out and re-thread it. or get a new rad. (thats if the entire valve fitting cant easily be removed)

its not a crazy rule. WRITING LIKE THIS is considered SHOUTING

:shock:

you could just stick a pump on the output from the tank. could always wire it thru a switch in cupboard. but be aware that water and leccy dont mix! dont put it where you can reach etc. where it gets its leccy from will depend on where it is etc

if CH works but not DHW then it could be the 3 port valve (or 1 of the 2 port valves depending on system)

i have a steinel tester. must have had it about 5 years and its still goin strong, apart from the lead gettin damaged and replaced once

have to bled the rads? does the boiler try to fire up? does the programmer have power to it? if your still stuck post on here and i could come have a look at it