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They came back round once, climbed on top of the roof to have a look, and said they can't see anything wrong. That's about it. I think they said "should have done the whole roof" (because they would have guaranteed) but I don't see how doing the whole roof would make much difference to the...

We've had a few roofers round and unfortunately like myself they can't determine where water is getting in, and are guessing. They would need to dismantle to determine if anything was done incorrectly. I did ask if they could take photos if they discover anything wrong, which they were happy to...

UK but it's a park home so that is not sufficient to keep it cool But it could also be an outbuilding, workshop, kennels, etc which can have the same problem with getting very hot and needing good ventilation as well as staying dry when it rains.

We're trying to figure out the best way of allowing ventilation during the warm times of year while keeping out rain with existing uPVC windows and a door. The door and windows all open outwards, and have insect mesh/nets fixed over the insides, followed by a metal grating/mesh. The door is not...

We had multiple roof repairs done in 2024, and everything seemed fine until winter. When there was some extreme and freezing weather conditions water had been managing to get in at the valley which had been redone. The roofers came back to have a look but said they couldn't see anything wrong...

Been trying to find a correct fitting solvent weld adapter for the large bosses on Aquaflow (from Toolstation) soil pipe branches. The boss seems to be larger than normal. Does anyone know what would work? It appears that Aquaflow's own adapters are only available in rubber.

I mean it's hard to take pictures because it's covered now apart from a couple bits of holes and cracks that sre visible from outside! I did see the condition of the wall before it was covered but assumed it wouldn't be finished like that? From inside the bathroom, the lower part is hidden...

Currently having various roof repair work done. I'm not completely happy with a dry verge that has been added butI don't know enough about roofing to know if what's been done is right or normal or not. The dry verge has been added to the side of a lean-to roof on the single storey bathroom at...

Thanks that's really helpful. I just need to do some working out now and refer to the thread mentioned earlier aswell. But I'll leave that til after the holiday I think! Merry Xmas!

Missing the points but I won't bother with discussing this irrelevance any more, and wait for helpful replies.

I wouldn't be able to enjoy the life I do if I didn't make sure I'm always doing and getting things for the best price. I don't have deep pockets. It's not about cutting corners or doing things cheaply but just doing the math to determine the best options rather than throwing unnecessary hard...

Would this definitely be cheaper than the other options? And how thin could concrete go above the dpm to keep cost and floor height down? Although I imagine the other materials would be more expensive per volume, if a thinner layer can be used then the cost difference would change... Hence my...

Concrete over the top of everything now should be ok though as it is bonded? I'd probably be looking at 1 m3 volume of whatevers used. Does anyone know how much it would cost for the same amount of a self levelling compound? As for the DPM and top layer... I don't know the exact options there...

I looked at the one about adding a surface DPM and one about self levelling concrete. Wouldn't those approaches be very expensive? I'm assuming the levelling compounds are expensive and I have quite a difference in levels. I'm also quite happy to raise the floor a bit if it makes it cheaper...

Been trying to figure this out. Saw a few more ideas online now and am more unsure so thought best to ask here. I want to level the downstairs concrete floors as they are all at different levels throughout, very rough and uneven, and there isn't a full and proper DPM so want to add that. I...

I'll text him. I said to bend a wire coathanger into an L-shape, but that way is better.

Yeah that's what I meant. I don't know why last night I said he'll probably put an RCD FCU upstream of the socket. I'm very sleep deprived. If the heater's on a plug and there's still only that one socket on the spur then an upstream FCU is unnecessary. He is just going to change the plug...

Sure. Can always hang wet clothes from the cable to dry out. :whistle: No, the bathroom walls are studs so he will drill a hole behind the heater and feed it through and up to the loft.

Yeah, I don't think he would like that on the landing! I'm going to speak to him again in the morning. He'll probably be happy to omit a switch outside the bathroom altogether, and just put a 13A RCD FCU upstream of the socket, then just have the heater plugged into the standard loft socket...

It's not the "right" way, and I know it would turn up some noses, though it is still safe. I think he would prefer it as it is the easiest option. The switched FCU was still going to be added outside the bathroom as it would allow isolating the heater without entering the loft, though maybe it...