Search results

Personally the only time Ive seen a pump delivery pressure fluctuate like that is when it is purging air after the fuel supply has been re-connected after maintenance.

Thats what happens with modern cars. What I do is a regular battery charge once a week. I just leave the battery on charge overnight every Sunday.

The winter position will run the flow temperature at maximum but the hot water will rise to the same temperature which can be hazardous to say the least. You might have some device fitted either electrical or mechanical to control that. If not its best to turn down the flow temp a bit if you can.

Sometimes what can happen is that the drum spider fails. That is a three legged frame structure that connects the drum to the drive. They are generally made out of rubbish material and it may be that one or more of the legs has failed allowing the drum to become unbalanced.

Hopefully it will be something straightforward and cheap to fix but I think the main pointer here for you is the lack of lockout. Any failure of the start sequence should lock out the burner and that lockout is a function of the controller. Anyway good luck with your troubleshooting.

I remember several years ago having a similar problem with a Riello burner where it kept repeating the ignition cycle many times before it eventually settled down and kept running. No red light or lockout. If I remember correctly it turned out to be a fault with the controller.

I have no idea about the bills but If the heating system was working OK for the previous owner then maybe he was operating the boiler in non-condensing mode.

If you have a modern highly insulated home then you can reduce the flow temperature to capture the latent heat that would otherwise vent to outside. On an older property you will probably need to maintain a higher flow temperature which will result in lower efficiency.

A copper channel can be annealed with a blow lamp allowing it to be formed to a shape before it eventually work hardens.

Even meter readers get these wrong.

Single screw to loosen underneath and the controller then just lifts away and you can replace it with a Drayton LP722 or similar that uses the same back plate.

Are the little supply valves on the hot and cold connections to the controller fully open?

Had a rummage through my archives and found an assembly instruction for boxes Pt.Nos. EBE-60R-SW and EBE-120R-SW which were installed in the UK but guess they are now discontinued. Might be worth searching on line for second hand.

A German company used to make a box specially designed to fit in the corner of a bathroom cabinet. Elektra I think they are called.

Glad it all worked out for you.

Well good luck with the boiler. Truth is that those old oil furnaces last for ever. Old or modern they cost much the same to run despite what people trying to flog you a replacement might tell you and spares are cheap and available.

Those pesky mosquitos will get in however close fitting the lid is, You can put a few drips of cooking oil in the butt to deter them but not if you are going to use it to top up a pond.

In my experience these diverter kits block up very quickly and dump most of the water down the drain anyway. What you could do is leave the drain pipe into tank one as per your pic and use a linking kit as suggested above. You will also need to provide an overflow to the drain from tank 1 the...

Nothing wrong with basic. Less to go wrong and if properly designed and installed will likely work just as well as any modern system thats rammed full of gizmos.

Early heating systems often used to run on the boiler stat only with no room or HW tank stat. Sometimes they would have what was called a cytrol valve on the supply to the hot tank to regulate the HW temp but they didnt work that well.