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Out of level by that much not an issue. Neither is 80mm bearing - chimney loads are actually quite small, relatively speaking, due to the bonding of the brickwork. Nice splices btw. Hopefully they supplied the correct grade of bolts?

As the extension seems to be over 6m long and beyond the rear wall, that would not be p.d and would need planning permission..

As it looks horizontal and unless my ageing eyes are deceiving me, that's not a chase, its a partial demolition.

:LOL:

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Just taking a sabaaaaaaaaaaatical.

If you wrap it round the back of the rearmost wall, it would need planning permission as presumably it would be more than half the width of the house?

It would help no end if the would-be apprentices could also speak English as well as Polish.....

Bolting the bottom flange to the padstone doesn't add much to wind resistance. Of more importance is the connection between the top of the windpost and the underside of the beam. It would also be better if the windpost itself could be bolted back to the wall (eg with welded lugs) but no fixings...

At present 4m is the limit without going down the neighbour consultation route, but there are proposals to increase this to 5m for detached houses. Might be worth waiting to see if/when this proposal comes in. A consultation (now closed) was put out in February so we don't know how the new...

A 305 x 305 on that span was ridiculous. There is the smaller option of a 254 x 254 which would have done, or even a 203 x 203 with a 250 x 6 plate tack-welded on top to pick up the cavity wall. To specify a 305 x 305 for domestic loading on that span is not engineering, its just lazyness. But...

If the builder is flummoxed as to why that keeps happening, he needs to get a different job.

If your house is 2-bed with a truss roof, presumably its a relatively modern terrace- or semi-detached house, right? Truss roofs are not the easiest to convert, but it can be done. In that case, a dormer loft conversion would probably need four steel beams - one for the ridge, and three for...

So whatever is above will drop 1mm at that end? :giggle: Your house won't fall down!

Assuming the steels are only spanning a garage width (2.5m?) they won't be heavily-loaded and cutting away the 5 layers won't be an issue.

Slightly O/T question: is your house a back-to-back by chance?

If you overboard the existing ceiling, make sure its the Kingspan insulated plasterboard, not polystyrene-insulated plasterboard. The former has its own 'built-in' vapour control barrier, while polystyrene doesn't.

There will be vertical timber hangers further back, supporting the ceiling joists off the higher main roof purlins, rafters or ridge board. There won't actually be much weight at the end each joist where they rest on the plaster, but agree not good practice!

That would not be adviseable, even if you could cut the brick without it cracking. Suggest taking the whole brick out (+ the mortar below) and bed your padstone on new 1:3 mortar on the two bricks below. If your padstone is 140 mm high (?) fill in the gap between the top of the padstone and...

It's your call regarding the inspector, but he may well comment on it when he checks the foundation trench. Google 'NHBC Foundations: Building near Trees' which might make you think again, depending on the type of soil you have, and other factors. @jeds - you beat me to it!