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This is the better of the two windows (they are the same, but this has less rot). It is 950x1550 and both casements open. What a beaut.

They are still in, but are in a sore state. They were rotten when we bought the place 5 years ago and are now more filler than wood... I don't like UPVC, but the price of wooden frames is bonkers.

We are not in a conservation area, but we would be keen to find something which (at least from street level) looks similar to our wooden casements. Pine not - thanks for the reply. We would love to go with wood, but we are being quoted £3500 upwards for just 2 windows which we are struggling...

Morning all, Can anyone tell me if all windows can be fitted from the inside please? We want to replace out single-pane wooden windows but live on the third floor and want to avoid paying for scaffolding if at all possible. If it helps, we live in a victorian conversion and the external...

I didn't know that, thank you for correcting me. I may have a chat with the guys at Johnstone's when I pick up the paint later.

All good advice, thank you. I am leaning towards a full oil-based system, finishing with Johnstone's Flat Oil. The areas I am painting will not get any direct sunlight, so I am hoping this reduces the chance of premature yellowing.

Cheers Pigeo85, we have lived without a panel on the bath for about 6 months and I haven't seen any water leave the bath or shower in that time so I figure the risk is small. Thank you all for you help.

Ahh, missed the "crazing" comment. My mistake, sorry. I am surprised that there isn't a solution which is both reasonably water resistant and with a matt finish (oil-based matts tend to be more 'satin').

Can you apply acrylic over gloss? Do you have to rough it up with some sandpaper first and, if so, would it retain its protection?

One of the biggest regrets in my DIY life is using lining paper. Skim it - it isn't that hard and you'll have a skill for life.

Every day's a school day!

Thanks Joe-90, Do you rough up the gloss before doing the undercoat/topcoat?

I thought Acrylic Matt paint would provide protection? Although I am making a bath panel, I very much doubt it will get more than the very occassional splash.

Green "heart" MDF? Never heard that before, what is it? I am using standard green MR MDF - is that the same stuff?

I have some Johnstone's Trade Acrylic Durable Matt to use up. The back of the tin says I should water it down to seal absorbent surfaces, but it also says to use a primer on bare timber. I am not sure whether either of these methods is best to protect MR MDF though. Any thoughts?

A handsaw followed by plane makes a lot more sense :oops:

Hi all, I need some help please. I am making a bath panel from MR MDF and want it finished in acrylic paint to match the existing paint scheme. Which of the following methods will give me the most waterproof result? 1) Acrylic primer, acrylic undercoat, acrylic top-coat. 2) Oil...

Cheers Hww, Skirting will be my fall back if the planing goes wrong. Also, I don't have a jigsaw with me at the moment either :( So other than it being a pain, there are no issues with planing 20mm off?

Excellent, thank you. Am I being optimistic in trying to plane off up to 20mm? And I assume any cheap plane will do, I only have this job to do.

Good morning, I am making a bath panel out of MR MDF, but due to a level bath and a sloping bathroom floor I need to 'shave' of about 5-20mm from one of the long edges. I would appreciate some advice on the following please - 1) Is 20mm too much to plane off (I don't have a circular saw)...