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What model is the timer?

The last one I cut open the conductors were welded to the terminals.

The regulations seem quite different there, such as T+E cables having a CPC the same CSA as the live conductors, it is also fully insulated. Useful in some applications but wasteful of copper in almost all others. The main switch on consumer units being single pole HRC fuse holders and so on.

If the HW valve opens fine on its own and fires the boiler on it will be the programmer at fault. The internals use a series capacitor to provide the supply to the electronics, this ages over time and can no longer provide the current required to power both CH and HW relays at the same time, but...

I'd want to test the wiring first, the 2 'new' colour cables could be an extension of a ring rather than spurs for example, connecting all the wires into the socket would then be incorrect. You could fit 5 2.5mm cables in the older Crabtree sockets, not that I'd ever do that, before they...

I can't seem to find the model boiler, just one with some add on SR conversion thing. I distinctly remember the boiler had an additional 15mm port for the secondary return pipe though.

The local council were fitting special combi boilers that had a built in secondary return a few years back. I haven't seen one since then, and I can't remember the brand. :( My combi boiler has a small hot water reserve that can be kept hot for faster hot water delivery but I quickly switched...

Most probably a fault with the programmer, what model is it? If you switch CH and HW off at the programmer and then switch only HW on does the valve open then? If it always works on its own but not when CH is also selected the programmer is faulty. The easiest way is to test if power is getting...

Is there any manufacturers warranty? 2 years is a short life for an appliance.

I've been returning to fluorescent and incandescent lighting at home as the quality of light is a lot better than the LED lights.

As above. I'd recommend stopping at this point and calling an electrician to investigate the wiring properly. The red wire connected to the earth terminal is a real concern.

No it isn't, those are Ansell Oxford LED fittings The red LED suggests the emergency light has failed its self test. Best way is to test for power at both the permanent and switched live terminals at the light.

There is even a spare socket in that adaptor to plug the dishwasher in!

Schneider iC60 certainly do, I don't do much domestic stuff now. I thought the Eaton domestic stuff also did but the indicator is only on the RCBOs with AFDD combined. I don't really look for an indicator when I'm fault finding I just grab the test meter.

Some brands have an indicator flag that changes colour depending if overcurrent or earth leakage tripped it.

I had a quick look at the manual, It doesn't mention this segment lit alone. The clock must be set to operate. If the divider isn't fitted correctly etc. -dE- is displayed on the clock part of the screen.

You will almost certainly need to set the clock before the oven will work. Does the manual mention this red indicator? Are any of the push buttons stuck which could prevent the other buttons functioning? It is almost certainly repairable!

You might get lucky...

link 1 and 3 at the stat next then. If the pump doesn't run then there is either a fault with the pump or the wiring somewhere between the controller and pump.

There are plenty of diagrams on the internet, I stole this one: Note how the top of the waste hose is positioned as high as possible.