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Boiler temp fine, rads red hot. Think I will have to call the pros...

Nobody any ideas??

Further info.... Just noticed that the bottom half of the tank is stone cold but top half to third is hot... Anybody?

I have a tank fed CHS and there is an electric solenoid on the 3 port valve to determine if heating only, hot water only or both. I have now removed this from the manual valve that it sits on, yet I still cant get anything but lukewarm water. The tank has a thermostat on and I hear it...

Solved it!! Wasn't a supply / feed problem, just airlocked. Trick was to open screw on pump face for a full 5 minutes :shock: .... Any less didn't get it all out, never knew more than a few seconds was required....

Can I ask why it would be that? As the plumber only recently resolved this without doing anything to the feed? I should have mentioned in my first post that I have created these issues by replacing radiators in the house, it seems my heating cannot cope with any disruption to it, airlocks...

As the title says I just can't resolve an airlock which shuts the boiler off in about 3 minutes, no hot water or heating for days now :( Every radiator is full of water, both header tanks are full and I have had the pump on for ages, changing speed to try and force air out. When I open...

further to ^^ ... I've answered my own question and realised that this will be prone to air, so I have ordered a Salamander S Type fitting for the top of my h/w cylinder. I am wondering though .. if I cut the existing h/w pipe as mentioned above and put a stop-end on the one out of the tank...

Just been reading up on these negative pumps and there is a single impellor type that says it will do the whole house (2.4bar). So couldn't I simply cut the pipe coming out of the top of the hot water tank and run the pipe from the tank to the input on the pump and the cut pipe to the pump...

Ok, thanks, not the best news in terms of cost but at least it will work!

Yep

I've read up and understand why now.... So can I get a single impeller one just for the hot as the cold feed is strong without the pump? There is a "SALAMANDER-ESP80CPV-2-4BAR-SINGLE-IMPELLER-POSITIVE-NEGATIVE-INTELLIGENT-PUMP" As this is just under £200. Can these negative pumps go...

Ouch :O Too expensive for me :( Is there any other way? What would I need to change pipe wise?

I've got a conventional hws, unpressurised system - hot & cold header tanks and cylinder h/w tank. I recently fitted a Techflow TP75 2bar Twin shower pump and expected it to just work in-line a couple of rooms away :oops: The hot water was in/out and the pump was clearly struggling...