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Yes John the consumer unit and the cables feeding in and out look nice, although could do with having a second inbuilt RCD, but the meter tails are a mess.

Yes Andy you are right, all 3 do go to the same place.

Yes well spotted John it is 80A not 8A. So the stand alone RCD is safe, but it would hinder diagnosis of what caused the trip. No John, no mention of 'TD' or 'Type S' so it probably isn't time delayed. So presumably I need it removed or replaced, another job for Scottish Power or SWEB...

I took a close up of those meter tails. There appear to be 2 red and 2 black with very old looking woven insulation, and a pair with more modern grey PVC insulation. So it looks like it's been upgraded over the years, but probably due another upgrade. It looks like a job for a...

Wylex 240v, 50hz, 80A load, 100mA Trip, CAT.Wem 80/2 Current Operated Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker. Device must Switch off on testing if not seek advice Thanks John, because it doesn't say RCD I hadn't realized that that was what it was, but I see '100mA Trip, and 'Earth Leakage' so I think...

I think I may have miss informed you 'Lectrician', the trip to the right of the Consumer Unit says: '240v, 50hz, 80A load, 100mA Trip, CAT.Wem 80/2 Current Operated Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker. Device must Switch off on testing if not seek advice'. Is this what you were recommending...

Thought I'd add another image, the wide angle view under my stairs.

Thanks Lectrician, I guess I didn't know if the potential difference was important, that was why I asked. No there is only the 1 single RCD, the lighting circuits and the immersion heater are not RCD protected, there are no other Consumer Units or RCD's in the house. Is it possible that a...

The MCB's for the up and downstairs lighting circuits were off, while the other MCB's for Sockets, Shower, Immersion heater, Garage were all on. I tried turning the others off 1 by 1, I had a PD of 1.2v, with all lighting MCB's off, then I turned off the Garage MCB and got 0.9v, then turned...

Hi, I decided to bury my 2 gang hall light switch and cables into the internal rendered brick wall. I connected the light switch back up and it worked fine, but when I came to disconnect it to cement the PVC conduit and metal back box in I noticed a 1 volt potential difference between the...

Thanks Foxhole. I don't think I will insulate, as the brick/thermalite cavity is insulated with 50mm of Celotex, and I'd rather not make the kitchen smaller. I have already over specked on roof insulation figuring that heat rises so that was the most important, with 150mm of Celotex rather...

That sounds like a good idea, although obviously more work/cost, would you clad the whole wall or just the parts where you intended to hang wall units, extractor hood etc? Also the electric and gas services have to go in next, so you would have to chase it out for the gas pipe, and it would...

So confession time, it's for my new build kitchen and the wall hasn't been dobed & dabed yet :lol: I took my testing a stage further, and you can see my rig test, made from 1off 100mm Thermalite block, 2off 25x30cm shelf brackets, and some bathroom scales. I tested different fasteners that I...

[/url] Thanks for the advice foxhole, They would have to be quite long to go through 20mm of D&D & then a decent depth into the Thermalite. It does say for Thermalite so I'd imagine they'd be good, I've seen them made of aluminium for plasterboard fixing someone called them pig tails, but I...

Thanks kbdiy, I've not been very impressed by the strength of Thermalite in a drop test, but I just found a 1/4 piece of Thermalite, and tried some test screws. I drilled a 6mm pilot hole, used a red raw plug, and a 30mm PZ wood screw, Then a 7mm pilot, brown plug, and a 40mm screw the same...

I want to put up B&Q kitchen wall units. The wall is dob and dabbed plasterboard, onto Thermalite aerated 100mm blocks, insulated cavity and 100mm brick. Can anyone recommend fixing that won't pull out easily?

Thanks for your help Aragorn. Yes the cooker is on a 32A MCB which is also RCD protected so would not need steel conduit, but purely out of curiosity when you say earthed steel conduit, do you mean it is earthed by the fact it is in a solid wall, or does it need to my connected to an earth cable?

I am doing some kitchen remodeling. The cooker control switch is mounted at 1.2m high on the wall, 0.3m horizontally from the 0.6m wide free standing electric cooker. The 6mm2 cable to the switch is buried in the solid wall, while the 6mm2 cable from the switch to the cooker is surface...

A good point 'Prentice', would it still be worth buying the new consumer unit for £70, taking out 1 RCD and 1 MCB, and keeping the rest of the consumer unit complete with 1 RCD and 9 MCB's for spares?

I just saw this on Screwfix, the same consumer unit as mine, but with 2 rather than 1 RCD. Presumably they wouldn't sell it if it wasn't currently legal. http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-sentry-10-way-dual-rcd-board-with-2-rcds-10-mcbs/92791?cm_mmc=Email-_-E14W05A-_-Hero1-_-MKsentry10wayrcdboard...