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Hmm, How about an upgrade to coach screws? I guess they'd have the advantage of the head not being countersunk too, and easier to drive with a socket set. A combo like this maybe? EDIT: seems links may not be working. The links are to: 8mm diameter x 70mm hex head coach screws 10mm diameter...

Hi all, Sorry if this is in the wrong forum section - let me know if I should post elsewhere! Currently fitting a new IKEA kitchen, they come with the metal rails, which you fix to the wall and "hang" the cabinets onto...

Great. So here's the plan for connecting all this up. The real wires you see in the Nest Heat Link are existing, but I've drawn the planned connections over the top. Anyone's thoughts would be greatly appreciated! OMNIE Wiring Image by greenstarthree01 posted 27 Mar 2020 at 10:04 AM

Great, I think I'm understanding this now, but am still working on drawing out a diagram beforehand, and will post that asap. What's the recommended way of powering all this, if adhering to EricMark's advice of having 1 FCU switch for the lot? The boiler's manual advises to power it directly...

Hoping to provide some clarification and as @ericmark suggests drawing some diagrams. Here's the existing setup. CURRENT CONNECTIONS by greenstarthree01 posted 26 Mar 2020 at 5:08 PM Working on the proposed new setup including UFH now. EDIT Also adding an example wiring diagram from Omnie...

Excellent, thank you. So this just leaves one question regarding the Heat Link's connection to the Omnie Wiring centre: All of Omnie's wiring diagrams presume you're using their own controls (of course), and have this kind of wiring at the zone terminals: OMNIE ZONE 2 by greenstarthree01 posted...

Hi, it's the DS-EWC1 wiring centre thanks EDIT Just opened it up again and realised that it does have what's labelled as "Volt Free Relay- Boiler" as well as the mains live output that goes to the pump. The wiring diagram I got with the Omnie is not particularly specific (it shows the boiler...

@ericmark , thanks for this - lots of good info there! Ok... So to confirm, I could swap the two wires over between Heat Link and boiler to get them matching what seems to be "standard" installation, without risk of frying anything? One thing - when you say they're 'volt free' connections, why...

A quick follow up: blog post (which in turn references an older DIYNot thread) suggesting the wires should be connected the opposite way to mine: https://www.linuxtutorial.co.uk/install-nest-heat-link-thermostat-with-a-baxi-duo-tec-combi-boiler/ Also, thinking about this, in my situation...

Hi all, I have an existing Baxi EcoBlue Advance combi boiler controlled by a Nest 3rd gen via Heat Link. I’ve just installed an Omnie UFH system (wet, boiler fired) and am trying to connect up its wiring centre, with it being controlled by the same Nest (as opposed to Omnie’s own thermostat)...

Ah, I see. I was being too liberal with the word series! Thanks for the clarification in any case. I won’t be cross connecting any lives and neutrals, that’s for sure!

Sorry, I may not be using the right terms here. What I mean is, everything in a row after the 13A FCU, or splitting from the load side of the 13A FCU and going to the socket on one cable and the alarm on another. johns posts suggest that either would be ok, it is there something I’m missing?

Thanks John. The 13A limit shouldn’t be a problem, certainly not for the socket we’re adding now anyway. last thing, and I might be repeating myself, it it would be a tidier cabling job to bring 2 cables out of the load side of the 13A FCU. One to the new socket, the other to the 3A FCU going...

Thanks again all. Healthy discussion this seems to have started! So assuming I can’t get 4 cables into the terminals of the existing socket, can I go: ring socket > 13A FCU supply > 13A FCU load > new socket > 3A FCU supply > 3A FCU load > alarm I understand the 13A FCU might not be required...

Thanks everyone for the replies, sorry haven’t been able to check in until now. So the consensus seems to be the new socket can be added without an FCU, if I can get 4 cables into the terminal of the original socket. If not, could I still add a 13A FCU just to ‘spread’ the terminals? So like...

Oh, but isn’t that what the alarm is doing now? Spur from ring socket, to FCU, to alarm? Different rules for a wired appliance as opposed to a socket?

@terryplumb Just to clarify, you’re saying spur from the supply side of the second FCU, as opposed to the load side of the first? Is there a technical / regulation difference between doing this and spurring both off the load side of the first as in my example? Seems like it does the same thing...

Hi all, bit of an ‘is this ok’ question, or could you suggest a better way....!? Want to add a socket in a hallway, but the tidiest socket to spur from already has a fused spur from it, supplying an alarm. The alarm spur is fused at 3A so not suitable for a double socket, but I don’t want to...

In our situation, access would actually be easier from the cold side because it’s simpler for us to get into the void from a hatch than it is to lift the boards to get at a cable/pipe. I could probably manage this with the cables but the pipes being fixed will have to stay where they are. The...

Thanks for the link - sounds like you did something similar to my plan, essentially rolls of loft insulation supported by netting. Good to know it can be done! Did you have to work around any pipes / cables? My instinct is to leave pipes above the insulation (on the warm floorboards side), but...