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Ha! yes - I missed it, and I usually pick up thread archaeology!

If you want to use it all year round, it needs insulation - including the floor. As @noseall suggests perhaps use the timbers you have to build an insulated suspended floor using the existing pad as the foundation, but my suggestion is to then build a SIPs building on top - fast, virtually the...

Not being funny, but are you seeking an SE for your own peace of mind? or because you need it for building regs? Is it an exempt building? If it is exempt and this is just to check your design, I'd try sticking the dimensions and construction in to AI and see what it comes up with.

google HPL sheets and you'll find loads of suppliers

:ROFLMAO:

Personally I would rethink that. Heavy books on a floating shelf with cantilever fixings! It can be done but you have to have a lot of faith in the tension strength of the fixings because of the of the leverage

This is always a challenge. The chances of the two end walls being perfectly square is close to zero, if only by a few mm. That few mm can be a PITA if you are trying to fit a heavy worktop. I wouldn't bother trying to measure angles. with a wall to wall WT there is no jiggle room. The best way...

I can't find the link quickly, but there are definitely cases on this forum somewhere where the council took enforcement action for some decking in a similar situation - and lost on appeal. My opinion is exactly the same as @freddiemercurystwin

@robinbanks Fair comment. But when making things we usually look for boards, and if you find one 173 wide you can make this, as you say, as long as it is 200mm long. The other clue is in post #1 - he wants to use a mitre saw. 4 cuts out of a board 173 wide using a board side as a datum is a darn...

@endecotp and @tlan have it right. The board needs to be 173.2mm wide. The height of an equilateral triangle with sides of 100mm is 86.6mm so the board needs to be the height of two triangles point to point.

That really is not a good idea. If your damp clothes have 0.5 litres of water in them, where do you think that water goes to once the clothes are dry? - the only place it can go is in to the fabric of your house, or conceivably out the window, if there's a good draft, but that isn't very...

This! - my immediate thought - draw a circle with 100 radius, divide the circumference with the compasses set at 100mm the same as radius, join the dots, cut along the lines. job jobbied.

Neat job, and once painted will look fine. A prime case of "if it looks right it is right" - possibly I would have split the sliver into two pieces, but TBH I'm sure that no-one would ever notice, except me!

Would it? It's a garage where people store and do all sorts of things. If you divided off the back and put a workbench in and a couple of woodwork tools would you need building control? Or perhaps you want a little art space for pottery or sculpturing, or perhaps you are a photographer and want...

It's an interesting one. NT has many bothies and bunk houses https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays/bothies-and-bunkhouses and I'm sure they don't comply with BR for normal habitable accommodation, but then neither would a tent. These are described as "camping with walls". I suspect that PLI...

With the gun I linked, I just scrape off anything around the nozzle, and sometimes give it a quick rub across the end with sandpaper or rub it on a brick. I just leave the can on. Max length of time is easily 4-5 months.

They are, but this year you have to turn over > £50K. Next year £30K and then £20K after that. Get an accountant and some software (I use freeagent which is free with RBS/Natwest business accounts) and it's no big deal

It does - the brass thumbwheel behind the trigger, and that's what I do too

I've had really good experience with this. https://www.cwberry.com/concept-foam-gun Pricey, but strips down easily if it does get clogged. I use it infrequently and leave a can on for 2-3 months at a time. I do sandpaper the end of the brass nozzle occasionally to get a good clean squirt, and it...

Personally I would avoid black uPVC altogether. The thermal expansion of uPVC is huge (0.07-0.08mm/m/degree), and black windows just get hotter which exacerbates the problem. e.g. a 1m tall window, with a 50 degree range (say -10 in a very cold winter, to a surface temp of 40 degrees with the...