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WD40 is NOT a penetrant - it is a water displacement substance. You need to use a proper penetrating oil like PlusGas or GT85

There is normally also a "doughnut" rubber seal ring between the bottom of the cistern and the top of the pan. You may be able to use the existing one, but gettring a new one of the same size is adviseable

The fix will be to cut out the leaking section of pipe, or remove the leaking joint and replace with new pipe or a new joint, or both.

If this 22mm pipe (or maybe a joint on it) is leaking, then you have no alternative but to get it repaired, whatever the access problems might be. With the amount that is apparently leaking, it not only will give you high bills but it might also be undermining your house foundations.

You need to find out and then explain whether it's the flush valve at the base of the cistern that is leaking (assuming you don't have an older siphon flush), or whether the fill valve is not shutting off properly so the cistern is overflowing. Modern cisterns overflow into the toilet pan, so...

Ahh....that hopper would have served as a vent and prevented the siphoning. Did a plumber change the hopper to unvented pipes? If so, did he warn you about the likelihood of siphoning?

If the outside "cupboard" (is it really an outhouse?) is waterproof, then actually it is a pretty good place for the boiler, as long as the pipes leading to and from it are well insulated. What exactly is your concern?

Yes, just Google oil storage tank installers with your postcode and you'll get some local small businesses who can supply and fit new oil storage tanks. Oil delivery companies will just sub-contract a new tank job maybe to one of these providers and just add their own markup to the price they quote.

Well, that's 3 possibilities! Which just illustrates that no-one can specify a particular hole size. You need to measure the outside diameter of the mixer tap fixing boss and cut the hole to that diameter.

He obviously couldn't be bothered to do the job right, so just fobbed you off. Filling the hole properly will not "just come out".

What a way for your "plumber" to leave the job! Did the large hole appear as this plumber dragged the old radiator off the wall? If so, it was down to him to fill it in to make it good. As others have said, fill the hole to within a few mms of the outer surface with cement mortar. Then finish to...

If you can buy exactly the same radiator but in black then, yes, the brackets and water connections will line up. Otherwise you'll need to do some very careful measurement of whatever non-identical radiator you plan to buy, and it's unlikely that everything will line up perfectly. I don't think...

I have a mixer tap where the cold is fed from the full pressure mains cold, and the hot from a cylinder fed from a CW storage tank only a few feet higher. It works perfectly well, albeit the adjustment of the mixer lever has to be predominately to the HW side to get warm water. So don't always...

Yes, the bleed screw may come loose after smacking with a hammer but, with that amount of rust, there's a danger that the whole bleed valve will come loose and leak or, worse, come out completely. If you don't want to renew the radiator for now, I'd leave well alone.

Well, yes, if there's no water entering the cistern when you pull the float arm upwards, there's no water to leak through the flush valve into the bowl. When you release the float arm, this allows water to enter the cistern so it's there to leak through the flush valve. It's not weird at all...

I think the answer is down to you. If the existing fill valve is working OK there's no need to change it for a new one. But you'll most likely need to remove the cistern to get at the bottom nut for the siphon, so you'll be disconnecting the fill valve to do this. So, if there's any doubt over...

So how do you think the sludge you say is in the system got to travel to the outside of it? If sludge had been able to get through the o-ring seal around the TRV needle, then large amounts of water would have come out as well. There's just been a small seepage of water around the needle which as...

If it's a stud wall I suspect the batten was screwed into the studs because the cistern fixings didn't coincide with them and would not support its weight if they were just screwed into the plasterboard. With a batten installed, the cistern can be screwed to the batten instead.

If that had been the case, then the other taps in the house wouldn't have carried on working.

If they had then the kitchen tap wouldn't have started working again