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Cheers for this guys, I'm alright with the rest, plan to put smart switches in and will need to cut out the noggin to get bigger back boxes in. Just checking there wasn't some weird UK reg I'd be breaking for something relatively simple. :D

Cheers Pete!

The fan has a separate isolator, that's just a normal light switch, didn't know if they split the switches for regs or just to make it obvious it's for a separate room.

Just wondering if there's anything in the regs stopping you putting two separate switches on one outlet (with individual switches for each). For example combing these on a 3 gang:

Cheers for that, thought it might be the case, seemed odd that only 30A are widely available when 32A breakers are usually used.

Just wondering whether 30A terminal blocks are normally used on a sockets ring main with a 32A breaker for connecting individual cables. I know the terminal blocks don't meet the amperage of the breaker but my understanding is that 2.5mm cable is only rated to 27A anyway? I'm assuming that if...

This is precisely why I wanted to ask, looks a bit suspect, maybe only really intended for vehicles?

The garage sockets were fitted before I moved in and off a 32amp breaker in the consumer unit, on closer inspection the outdoor socket is on a spur off an inside socket (inside sockets all got 2x T+E). On that note I won't be running anything else off it unless it gets protected. I can just run...

So best just stick to wiring the plug to a standalone FCU, then onto the lights I guess? Just for clarity with the spur off a spur thing, the outdoor socket is part of the garage ring main.

As in a full size outside FCU (individual enclosure)? I can I was just trying to reduce the number of wiring points.

Ello, Looking to run some lights off an existing outdoor power socket. Rather than adding a full size outdoor switched connection unit and adding extra cable/glands etc is there anything that can be used inside the existing enclosure to run the 1.5mm cable off? I've seen these FCUs which...

Ah okay, well the lighting circuit is protected by the main consumer unit, guess it'll be easier to have it surface mounted. Cheers

Thanks for the in-depth reply, pretty sure the tank supplies everything, combi has two outputs, cylinder and rads. I'm just taking the simple option in the end and will be fitting a new thermostatic mixer on the bath, should be fun with the 2 inches of space to work in!

It's the hall light switch, literally just inside the front door, seems like an easy way to get a power supply to the door bell. Main question is whether it's okay to just fit a standalone transformer inside a stud wall, would it need to be a metal or enclosure or is plastic okay? Can't see how...

Thanks, Yeah there's a neutral, I installed a smart (WiFi) switch there which needed one. I want to go out of the light switch back box and fit the transformer (inside metal enclosure) next/close to it, then I'll run cable for the doorbell about a metre away into the PVC door frame from inside...

I have a light switch next to the front door, pretty much perfectly placed to wire the front door bell with a transformer. My question is, would it be considered legit to fit a single module metal enclosure with the transformer inside my partition wall or is this a big no no?

Well yeah, the combi is set to 65 for both circuits, I'm thinking more about the tank.

So, if the whole boiler output is low temp how do I adjust that?

Here we go. Possibly a thermostatic valve in the first pic below the expansion vessel?

Cheers for the replies, house is 7 years old so definitely falls into the new build category (old house was 3 years old, bought from new). I'll try get up and have a look at the tank, hopefully it's not set to a low temp or there's issues with it, already been through boiler pain after moving...