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Thanks again chaps! I shall proceed in order of gentleness and post the results here. I really appreciate your wisdom and your eloquent suggestions! Paul

Ok, so it looks like I have a choice of methods - Joints method or hinges method. :) I have been wondering if it might be possible to temporarily place the doorstop to over-correct the warp, then leave it for a month. There should be quite a bit of humidity as the room is newly plastered and...

Hi big-all! The door has about 10 layers of paint on it! I'm not intending to dip it - just want to get it unwarped in the simplest possible manner before hanging it back and giving it the 11th coat!

Thanks a million for your help and explanation! I'll take the glass out and report back once I've carried out the procedure!

Thanks for that - glad to know it's possible! As you correctly guessed, the door is a cheap six panel softwood door, but the top four panels are obscure glass. Presumably I ought to take the glass out first before trying this..?

Hi Everyone! I'm renovating a cloakroom in a victorian house, and the door is warped - about 1/2" from bottom to top. Of course, I could adjust the doorstop trim to suit, but it wouldn't look very nice. So I wondered if anyone else has had any success in unwarping old doors? I'm guessing...

28mm because the boiler is 35kW and the cylinder's 15m away. Two baths and two pumped showers. I started a thread in the forum debating whether to use 22 or 28mm for the cylinder: (http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=129462&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0). The experts were split...

Hi Lunat There are some large CH and water pipes in the way. I could have route the coil pipes over and under them but this would presumably create additional air traps. Also the coil primaries are 28mm, and will be insulated (19mm pipe insulation), so some quite large chunks would have to...

I'm connecting a vented indirect hot water cylinder to my central heating system, which is in an airing cupboard on the top (first) floor some way away from the boiler and pump. The pump is also on the top floor just aboce the boiler. Unfortunately, there is no way to route the cylinder coil...

Thanks Agile. So, if the constricted bore is unimportant if not too constricted and/or not too long, why do shower pump manufacturers insist on full bore valves instead of isolator valves? Playing it safe I suppose... Cheers, Paul

Nice one mate. Thanks a lot.

Hi everyone. I have a 15m run of 28mm copper pipe, most of which will go in the loft. The pipe will be insulated with pipe sleeving, 19mm thickness. My question is: What is the best way of securing the pipe to the walls and joists. If I use standard 28mm plastic clips I will have to put them...

Good point. Unfortunately I have now bought 30m of 28m pipe and fittings now so I might as well stick to that. I take comfort from the fact that you professionals are divided about this - it means it wasn't an entirely stupid question :)

Agile and Doitall, looks like I still have a lot to learn about plumbing! I'd assumed that 35mm would offer no benefit if the flow was constricted at the boiler by 28mm connections, in the same way that 30A cable would be no advantage if connected to the end of 5A cable. I must admit that the...

The boiler itself has 28mm primaries so 35mm is not an option. I wasn't aware you could only tee off the common return once - the central heating part of the system was already there when we moved in. What is the consequence of more than one tee?

Thanks for all your help everyone. The boiler MIs don't say anything about the primary coil thickness, but I like the thinking that 120000 BTU's is a lot of heat to shift if it's all directed just at the dhw cylinder, so I'm going for 28mm. doitall, The Central heating itself starts out at...

Ah - that makes sense. Thanks Mick. And presumably, if the rads are fitted properly with correfct size pipe (I think they are), then the cylinder flow won't have to be too constricted to balance the CH and HW.