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I'm removing pebbledash from our external walls (1935 semi) and I've hit the point of the old stove / boiler flue. I've included photos below. My current thinking is to rebuild the wall by cutting and toothing to the 'half brick' depth and using standard brick for the gap (which is exactly one...

I've a 1930's house with pebbledash that I'm in the process of removing and at the same time redoing some of the wall ties. Attached is a new kitchen extension, block built. I'm very confused as what the right / sensible render to use is. There seems to be so many options. My neighbour has used...

Currently we've a double door porch that is about 35 cm deep to the front door. I've no idea why it's that size but I really want to build one with a single door that's bigger and has more use to us than being a draught excluder. But I need help, I can do the base, the brick line all fine but I...

I'm insulating a floor today with 100mm pir and the joists are also 100mm. Not a problem, however the joists rest on beams in several places. I'm worried about cutting off the airflow in the space underneath. There are holes in places where the brick hits the concrete base but I'm concerned...

Hi guys, I'm trying to figure out the best way to move water from the area directly in front of my new extension. Water has a natural tendancy to form here as the area is shaded a lot of the day and the level of the garden is lowest here (it's not a massive slope though) and I want more...

Once again I've been subject to the randomness and inconsistency of the LABC - which is fine, it's an education at least but they've told me my kitchen extension roof must go into a soakaway. The problem is it's the first time I've heard this. We're essentially replacing what was already...

The walls are up, the roof is on but our single story kitchen extension is taking a hammering from the rain and I don't think rendering is going to take place this year. We're probably looking at about 5 months before it can be done. The window and door is going in next to secure it but I'm...

We're building a kitchen extension where a steel is going in to open up the old external wall to the extension. Because winter is coming, is it ok to put the door and window in first? Initially I was thinking of having the steel delivered and in waiting in the extension to be fitted at a later...

I thought that was going to be simple. I went to two large roofing contractors this morning in search of a vapour control layer for my deck prior to adding the 150mm insulation (pir). They literally have two types, flame on and flame off and both are felt based...

Next week I'll be building the warm, parapet roof of our 5 x 3m extension. I've got my head around everything except the gutter. According to the architects drawings (attached) I'm to form a box gutter in the insulation but there's no reference to a fall across the 5m length, only a 1:80 fall...

I've settled on a warm roof for our kitchen extension but is it ok to screw through the vapour control barrier. It seems counter intuitive to do this? Rubber cover OSB (screwed through to joists) 150mm insulation OSB Joists

Hi, I'm building a kitchen extension where the extisting DPC will match / be at the same level as the new extension wall. We'll be using wall starters between the old building and the extension. Will I need a vertical DPC too? Is it preferred to open the existing cavity and join there or on...

Hi, I'm building a kitchen extension. Our existing floor is a suspended one meaning the DPC is two rows of bricks below the door thresholds. The extended part of the house is designed to have a concrete slab, the final floor level of which is to match the level of the floors in the house. How...

Hi everyone, I've a 7x3m concrete base that I need to frame and insulate but I'm seeing general pir sizes are 60, 80, 100mm but the timber merchant on supplies 95mm. Should I be using 95mm timber and 75mm PIR with a gap underneath instead? I kinda wanted 100mm in there though. Thanks!