Search results

Thanks spark, this came up in an earlier posting i made If it is something i can do without killing myself and the charge for giving notification isn't excessive i would put it in, however from feedback i got and suspicions i already had it seemed it was just as well to get someone in to do...

Yeah i don't see anything wrong with it - if you've saved people money why not :D Now would anyone say hooking the new length of 6mm into my consumer unit bears thinking about or is that a step too far.. I have a book that shows you how but i'll be getting the work certified by a pro...

No need long as we get there in the end i'm okay with it! So all switches come with "load" and "supply" terminals, and because the FCU is pre switch that'll have to be 6mm, will the socket have to be as well, the manufactures state 4mm for the hob but i only have 2.5 and 6, 6 should be okay...

errm :?

ah now, this is where it gets juicy As all the sockets around the area have already been spur'd, this may be where you'd probably quite rightly suggest extending the ring main but reading more about it seems you need to use junction boxes (...

Sorry i don't think i made myself as clear as i could have, its not so much where i'm physically putting the FCU but how i'm wiring to it Am i running 3 lots of 6mm from the switch, one to the socket, one to the cable outlet and one to the FCU? only i may be wrong but i don't think i'd ever...

Thanks Steve yeah i realise some is a bit out So i can understand it fully i just need to step through some aspects I'm wring a 40A (still not sure where these can be bought!) switch which can be in a cabinet above the worktop as long as its within 2m of the cooker, then from there running...

Hi all I know there are a lot of questions already regarding this kind of install but most differ in some way Quick specs: single oven 2.8-3kw ceramic hob 6kw standard 3a extractor hood Grade of cable - 6mm2 Distance 15 m max 40A MCB at CU My questions are exactly how i can do...

Okay thanks i will either open it up later today or get someone over if there doesn't appear to be a way to get to it, can we safely rule out that there is air in the boiler given where I've bled? Thanks all those who've helped so far

Ah yes you are indeed correct it is a B9 I had similar problems about 7 months ago and called someone out, sods law was on the day they were due to arrive the noise went away. I asked if he could open up the pump anyway to have a look but after having done so he more or less drew a blank...

i only just saw your post sounds like a damn fine idea but the only manual i could find for it doesn't give any maintenance info so i don't know how

oh and i bled the water pump from the screw at the front

okay sounds interesting..there are two bleed valves on top of the boiler one which is definitely related to hot water and is on top of a feed pipe and the other on top of a fairly big cast metal box, both of which i bled - is that okay ?

looking at other posts it seems like the fan is also a possibility, its a worcester bosch heatslave 15/19 over 10 years old, the noise is there from starting it up, before you hear it fire then quite often it gradually falls away after 10 mins or so - only to come back with a vengeance

finding it really hard to tell but i would say its either the burner or the oil pump

ta for reply greemyamochop i'll just see if i can tell but i was literally off to screwfix this second to get some fernox f2 (silencer) before they closed, will this be a wasted effort if its the pump or would this generally help?

Hi wondering if anyone can give a diagnosis on the latest trouble with my boiler After draining the central heating to add new radiators and re-work some piping on flushing out and refilling, my boiler is making a now familiar grinding noise and very occasionally what i think could be...

I'm not sure if anyone will still be following this thread but I have all pipework back and have flushed the system - now leaving me with a kettling boiler! (although it did at times before) From posts that i'm seeing i should be looking at getting a version of Fernox's treatment, F1, F2 or...

thanks boilerman i have tried, boiler fires up and all sounds well however on turning on the hot water there's no warmth there as you'd expect after a startup and it still doesn't fire up on requesting hot water..how does this work on a sealed system? because there has seemed to be a reduction...

yup correct picasso whats more only flow and return to the upstairs is capped and the rest is as it was and in a loop so if it were the problem you'd expect it t be getting some draw from that