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Cheers bloke, Now I can get er indoors off my back by finishing mine.

Good luck with the furniture ABN, I really am sorry if this seems rude but I have a question for JasonB if thats ok. Great photos Jason, you do nice work. Can I ask what you used to get that gorgeous finish on the cabinets. Thanks in advance. Cheers ABN

I would not use anything less than 9mm wbp with a 2x1 min, 2x2 pref framework behind.

Howdens are good and cheap. Find all the branches near you, get a quote in one send it to another and ask them if they can better it, then do the same with the next branch, you will be surprised how it comes down. They are also good solid, pre assembled units. One thing to bear in mind is...

Fit the kitchen straight and true then plasterboard with dot and dab the back wall to match the units. Then hang any wall units on top of this. Hope this helps

Double glazed units roughly cost between £30 and £40 Per meter square. Hope this helps.

Ive just tiled mine and i also included a rcessed area in which i fitted a radiator cos theres never a good place to put a rad in a bathroom. Another option is to stud it out then fit matchboard to it, B&Q do some really nice packs and not too expensive. Dont ask me what to coat it up with...

Some of the cheaper mass produced so say solid floors are really blocks of weaker, short pieces of timber off cuts, combed together then veneered over to give the appearance of a solid plank. Therefore in my opinion are weaker and in need of more support. The more expensive are solid...

Hi hoyboy The sink should come with a seal strip, either pre-fitted to the underside of the lip, or loose to be fitted before install. The hob should come with some putty like strips that fit to the underside of the hob. I personally would'nt go near those lovely wooden tops with silicon...

What I should have said was. '' I wouldn't lay it straight on the joists'' Because I would personally like it stronger with less give which means less chance of the floor creaking. The floor would also be better sound insulated when walked upon, and better thermal insulation...

Hi grimster. If its prefinished t&g oak flooring you have, you should not be laying it on joists. If its the flooring im thinking of then you need to be laying a solid boarded floor on the joists,(say 18 or 22mm caberfloor) then an underlay, then your floor glued together and not nailed so it...

Did you put anything such as underlay under the plywood. The slightest bit of grit under there will sound awfull. But it will eventually go to dust.

And Howdens

Yes mate

The best way is to carefully remove all the rotten beading. Then chisel away all the rotten wood back flush with the glass and bottom panel. Prime all bare wood surfaces and then fit replacement primed timber, the same size as what you removed, screwed into the remaining framework between the...

Doc You could fit the base units square from the longest wall then plasterboard/dot and dab the shorter wall above the units to bring everything square then fit any wall units to this. Job done.

Or you could try a DIY forum. Howdens do a nice one http://www.topclasscarpentry.com/product/419/

I fitted a kitchen for a mate, overnight his toilet over filled and overflowed into his garage (dont know why the overflow went out to the garage) The next day i was told it was my fault because i had turned the water off on the previous day to plumb in the kitchen sink. I just laughed at him...

I agree with Gregers Heres a good plate from Wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/Timber-Brackets/Flat-Joining-Plate/invt/152804 You could also use a joining strip http://www.wickes.co.uk/Worktop-Top-Trims/Straight-Joint-Trim/invt/310037 If you want to do a proper job then you will need a worktop...

Just give it a couple af coats of high build masonry paint. it gives it a nice textured finish and protects the boards just fine. I have workshop made from shuttering ply, i did the same to it years ago and its still going strong and its in a very exposed area. Heres a good one...