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cheers for the tips peeps

I did consider the adjustable down lighters but wasn't sure if they would adjust enough. standard pendants look naff with the ceiling rose on the angle. I had quite a high ceiling level so formed flat section along the landing instead.

i have an idea which may be feasible. Could you agree as a gesture of good will to install a drop down bollard which would then be given over to the owner. (If road is adopted its a no go?)

contact the water authority they'll confirm easements. You should also of been made aware of any easements within your boundary in your conveyancing plans

if the walls are cavity filled you shouldn't need to use insulating plasterboard. Do you know cavity width and insulation specification. If it is necessary to use insulating plasterboard then use a Gyproc Themaline or similar. 35-50mm should be ok as its only a thermal upgrade...

Can anyone suggest a good light fitting which is practicle for use in the t-fall of a roof. basically on the landing there is no flat section don't really want to locate recessed downlighters as they would be on an angle and the only other option i can think is wall mounted fittings. Any...

there a bit beefy. will be a little more slender than that i think. once the qs looks at it will be boxed eaves with plastic fascias and soffits anyway.

scalloped end purlins to gable and exposed rafter at eaves. this is the detailing I'm doing at the moment. i know you can get dummy GRP products, but don't think these are really suitable

if only but my a**e is glued to the seat doing building reg submissions and specs.

I'm an architectural technician who is used to trussed rafter roofs and pvc fascia and soffits. I want to get to grips with tradional roof detailing and joinery. i would be grateful if anyone can recommend any good books that i could refer to. thinking along the line of exposed rafter...

I disagree we use it for balconies and loose lay decking or ballast with paving flags and gravel in residential scenarios from houses to flats. It does'nt have to be sarnafil. Although it does have to be installed by specialist subies. health and safety is better. no blow torches.

didnt go to page 2. OOPS woody appears to have best idea. IMO also you may not get GRP top off the shelf to fit with it being drectly under main roof, but worth checking out.

What about a GRP bay top, which will come preinsulated with pu foam. it can be made to look like a lead top. Also to increase insulation use an insulatiing plaster board. under cill use a high performance rigid insulation board like celotex. 70mm thk should do ya. you will need a...

noone seems to suggest single ply membranes on here, any reason, they are a little more expensive, but the guarantees you get are worth the expense; dont you think? Also dry seal fibre glass sheets seem a good alternaive??

Agree with Freddy here, most inspectors are amicable, but some are very stringent. GENERAL RULE: always ask inspector first.

it definitely can't be a habitable room if its not insulated and conforms to the latest building regulations. if it's only just improved access you are after than an access hatch with a drop down loft ladder is the way forward. Another option for a stair maybe what you call an alternating...

use an eaves protetction board like this http://www.kbp.co.uk/products/roofline-products-4.php will last years probs cheaper than lead but dont quote me on that. :wink:

so is it only at the ridge where it meets the fascia? is there a soffit? you need stepped lead flashing down the raking abutment assuming brickwork behind. the mortar joint should be raked 25mm and the lead turned in and held in with lead wedges. have a look this...

BBA is relevant for new build if you want a build warranty from the likes of NHBC, Zurich etc.

lol sorry i do the drawings at work and sometimes get told off the buyers when i over specify. the thing is if out doesnt work i get the blame, so i let them decide what to cut back on.