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this forum needs more relaxing threads like this... so ive bumped it to the top.

lol at least its sorted now... danger averted!

are you sure you reset the wiring to what it was exactly before you started? Sounds like there's a wire connected to live that shouldn't be.

Fair enough. My next guess is that the gas valve is faulty, but as madrab has said you'd need a gas engineer to go further. Keep us updated.

if the guy cant even be bothered to check his flue... I'm out.

I'm stuck... what is the 'flow rate required' for the boiler? In the boiler manual it tells me the 'minimum flow rate' for DHW... but I need the minimum flow rate for Central Heating. Can you help? Boiler is Baxi Main Eco Elite 30

yes, but seen as you're opening it you may aswell replace 19,21 and 12 which are seals and washers( assuming you can get the parts! - which may be tricky)

yeah, that and not having to dig holes through your plaster to install the wires required for a wired one!

a picture would help us understand your problem... but a wrench has always done the trick for me.

rather than you turning the water off for the whole house if it had been plumbed in correctly, there should be an isolation valve on the piping near the shower. Which would allow you to just turn off the water supplying the shower. Once you disassemble there will probably be a cartridge inside...

sounds like he's going with the old 'just replace everything' approach. Don't sound right to me. Wait for one of the gas engineers to reply @dean7445 is pretty good at diagnostics

looks like the thermostat's been wired incorrectly.

c'mon bernard... r u taking the p1sh?

Of course it can be replaced. I think those mechanical timers cost around £10 If you want to upgrade to a wireless programmable thermostat (which allows you to pre-program your preferred temperature at various points in the day). Then I suggest the Salus RT500-RF thermostat @35 from amazon...

I have the same boiler. Sounds like you haven't switched it to timer mode as the others have alluded to. So there's a switch on the actual mechanical timer you are talking about. It has 3 positions. Off, Timer, and Continually On. You need it to be on timer.

Can you make sure there's nothing blocking the flue?? preferably visually inspect the inside of the flue. I've seen occasions where kids have thrown stones inside when the flues are low to the ground.

A lot of old school cats on this forum. Well I'm gonna drag you forward into the 1980's

Serious advice this time.. A decent gas safe registered guy should certainly be able to find electrical faults within your boiler. Just confirm with them when you call Theres a guy on this forum called Dean7445, he seems to specialise in things like that. I think he's around the london area if...

Hi, Installed a new boiler where the flue went through a pre-existing air vent hole (200x300mm). The hole was subsequently patched up. Hardwall was used for the base plaster and multifinish on top. Also, a chase was chiseled out and a new electrical connection added. Chase was also plastered...

If your gas engineer had taken that silver cover off the front of the boiler then he would have spotted the leak (assuming the system hadn't been drained). Wait to see what Dan says... because although he can be a bit rude, he does know his stuff probably moreso than anyone else on the forum.