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You should have a seperate 'T' shaped filling key with a bayonet end. Remove bottom panel on boiler, left hand side near the front is the filling loop assembly. Insert bayonet end of key and twist to lock in place. There is a small grey knob which you then turn anti-clockwise to allow mains...

Hanging's too good for him. Mind, if it took him three weeks, he's more likely to die of starvation before HSE catch up with him.

Perhaps the lever isn't lifting the membrane high enough - adjust linkage.

Noah :shock:

It sounds like it works OK for HW, so check the operation of the Y-plan valve, could be stuck or duff micro-switch.

Surely you must have mis-heard the BG man. He would have been quite likely to suggest a new boiler because of a leaking heat exchanger, and condensed water vapour could run down the inside of the flue and be apparent around the joints. But absolutely no oil, unless.........where do you park...

Stop using them to dry your underpants

Use some of these - http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=55266&id=12635

The regs dont allow the flue terminal to be within 150mm of an opening in the fabric of the building eg.window frame etc. So you will probably have to brick up the opening on the outside at least.

They didn't mention Powermax by any chance?

No reason why it shouldn't run in a chase. Reg's say it needs to be protected from corrosion, wrapping with tape would do that. The wrapping needs to extend 25mm beyond the corrosive material (plaster). The installation must pass a tightness test before you wrap any pipes.

If you have TRV's fitted it could just be that they're doing their job - they are operated by air temperature and radiators don't neccesarily need to be scalding hot to raise room temperature enough.

I once had a similar problem which turned out to be the coil being blocked by the plumber using sh*t loads of LSX on the union with the coil. Might be worth looking - you don't seem to be getting anywhere with the airlock theory.

Compartment venilation is always reuired for open flued appliances but, many room sealed boilers do not require it. If the manufacturers installation instructions for your boiler state it's not required if the minimum clearances are observed then build your compartment to those dimensions,and...

Don't let any more air out from the expansion vessel - it's supposed to be in there. I'm pretty sure the automatic air release is mounted on the base of the pump and should have been opened when the boiler was initially filled. If not, 1 turn anti-clockwise will do it. Also look for...

If the means of isolation is a gate valve its more likely that thats passing even if it feels like its working when you turn it.

The 15mm pipe you quote is 17.5 metres long once you allow for the elbows, which will pass about 1 cubic metre of gas an hour. That's not going to be enough for for a 60k btu boiler of any sort, so you're gonna have to fork out for a new gas run regardless.

Presumably you didn't leave the heating on when you were on your jollies. If so, it sounds like you may have had a problem with the filling loop passing or you left it open, raising the system to mains pressure. This has caused the pressure relief valve to open, (drips from overflow/warning...

Re-newing the existing valve or even just the washer should cure it. If it's tank fed it could be the ball valve in the loft that needs attention.

Thick? You're the one who doesn't know how to change a rad.