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Our house is made of soft old bricks which do take in water and blow,due to the age of the house we have no foundations; the house is build on chalk with a slate damp course. The previous owner pebbledashed the building which we have taken off and intend to re-render to the old slate damp...

I have exposed my joists which are 4" x 2" joists in the kitchen/hall which seem to be either 16" or 17" apart. I intend to put a wooden enginneered floor down on 18mm ply on part of the floor and tile again laid on 18mm ply on another bit of the floor. Are my joists too far apart such that I...

I need to repair/replace the wooden piece above a ground floor bay window which is partly rotten. It is a 1920's house and the window has a typical curved lip above the window - wooden structure as far as I can tell covered in render. The piece that is rotten is horizontal, like a soffit under...

I understand that I need a firedoor bwteeen my garage and the house. On the side of the garage there must be a 100mm step to prevent any fuel leaking in to the house and a closure and strudent strip on the door. Does the fire door need to be for one hour burning ie a 55mm door? Anything else...

Our builder has built our window and doors apertures, but not covered the cavity. Before our windows and doors are fitted should I fit the premade cavity closures to the window and door apertures. How do we fit these and what do we need to be aware of i.e. not damaging any damp proof...

We are having an extension and a rewire. The sparkey has said that as we have a solid floor on part of the old house between the new position of the fuse box and the extension it is fine to drop wires from the ceiling vertically for sockets. I am unsure about this as I always thought they...

We are working on a 1920's house with no foundations. The house is having an extension with the front of the house being knocked through and steels sitting on piers supporting the existing house. Building control have suggested dry packing the piers rather than wet filling the pier void. What...

I have always used capping rather than putting the wire direct in the wall or in the cavity. I was advised that plaster makes the sheath on electrical wire deteriorate quick and that's why you put it in cappying and it's easier to rewire. We have a sand and lime mix in the 1920's house is...