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Cheers, i'll check venturi. A lot of people agree with scatman! Just put a new boiler on costs a lot more money than a repair. Ta for the other suggestions.

Replaced air pressure switch, but when boiler lights it goes out straight away! After six or seven attempts it stays alight, but same problem occurs when it tries to light again! Any ideas?

you can get pipe thermometer to strap on after the valve and adjust it to higher temp (60 degree c) this shouldnt affect heating.

What model combi do you have? If its condensing check the condensate trap. Also check pressure gauge reads positive, 1bar. If these ok then check pump is rotating. Can you hear fan run and ignition sparking? Is there power to boiler. Am i just waffling on and on. God is that the time?

i guess being in a flat you have a combi boiler? If so draining and flushing system is best. When it drained down add sentinel X400 via a radiator top, and refill and bleed. When you refill dont chugg in to much water (1 to 1.5 bar). Leave it in for a week or two then drain and flush out well...

May be worth fitting an air separater, check pump speed, does it look like pump may drag air in via vent pipe? Does this affect your boiler in any way?

Even a like for like boiler would need the flue replacing. Repairing a hole in the ceiling is not difficult. Maybe the nice boiler man will make good after. Have to check on powermax, there may well be alternative, cant think wot ther're called at the moment. Check online?

Grundfoss are good impellar pumps, last for ever. There are other bronze pumps that are not impellar driven but these tend to fail quickly or cant circulate if the pipe runs are too long. Dont forget single check valve before cylinder. Fit a time clock, then you can have it off in the early hours!!

Thats a good price to do all that stuff :!:

Check motorised valve is open on heating circuit.

Could also be split diaphragm. you can repair kits for these.

Drink more beer until you feel able to pick up a copy of the local pages and call out a plumber, or if unable to do this get the barman to do it on your behalf :!:

You can tap it, pull it with pliers, take rad off wall and open to check flow, all top notch tips, but as with all plumbing jobs keep a handy supply of towels to hand and get familiar with all exits before lifting a spanner :lol:

Doncha hate it when that happens!! Presume its an open vented system? Probably air lock in boiler, or pipe work somewhere. When filling up manually open any motorised valves by moving slider across. Is pump running? Try going through the motions of firing boiler so the pump has a go at...

You should be able to disconnect loop from the heating manifold and run a hose pipe thru that section. If its a long loop the chances are quite high its an air bubble. need to flush it for a good 5-10 minutes then reconnect. Also shut down all other underfloor circuits and rads to force water...

Ball valve may be stuck close. Water evaporated. Need to get into tank and physically wiggle it about until it moves freely. Otherwise change ball valve its only a few quid!

microbore sucks! Having it cleaned out and treated with fernox or sentinel X100 is the best thing to do. If still not working take off rads and flush thru with hose pipe. If still not working get a power flusher on the case.

Oil combis are usually big floor standing items. If you use a combi boiler for heating and hot water, when you run out of oil you get no hot water!! If you use a cylinder, vented or otherwise, you always got the immersion for back up.