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I gues not then.

Even though that did make me chuckle, a helpful answer would be nice, if you know that answer that is?

Would you say this light fitting is suitable for use in a bathroom? Thanks

So wondering how you handle the situation of telling people about bad electrical work you see on their houses, not customers but such as if you go around to a friends and see a lashup they've made of something, do you risk offending them and put them straight?

This should be intresting... Plugs & sockets melting and smoking, and you think that's not a serious enough problem/fire hazard to call a professional.

Thats a good point, would installing a TV on the wall of a 'special location' such as a kitchen come under part p, probly not as it is a pre-fabricated item and requires no wiring, however what if you were to cut the plug of to push the wire though a worktop, then wired a new one on.........what...

[/url] Why would anything I suggested doing couse a fire if done correctly? (Sorry its a late reply, just wondered)

I did not intend to start a war! Please stop squabbling... I think we can conclude that is fixed (even if the socket unclips, the cable doesnt). It doesn't seem dangerous though if installed correctly, though is is untidy and unprofessional and there is a risk someone could remove the rcd...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GufMHEPOhQ Looks a right mess I know, especaily the swa bit, and if she'd "drilled" just another 4" right :0 What do we think about part p, it is fixed but is also a plug in kit, on the outside at least?

In that case, it may be tricky to track down the other end of the cable without lifting above floorboards, unless you can physically see or know where the cable ends? If you want to remove the light then connect a new one later then the best thing to do is to terminate the cable in a water proof...

You would have to source out were the cable from the light goes (straight to switch / jb) and disconnect it. That may involve lifting carpets/floorboards so tbh its probably easier to change the light if you feel confident doing so. Alternately you could fit a waterproof connection box where the...

OK, thanks, I'll pick a suitable fitting :)

Thanks for the replies, just asking because the ceiling light (a bayonet batten holder) has broken as was gonna replace it with something different, not sure what yet though... as it's not like-for-like just wondered if I was breaking part P.

Have a room that just has a toilet and a sink, not a shower or bath or anything else. Does this mean that is a bathroom or just a normal room from an electrical point of view? Thanks for your ideas... :D

It's fine, if you're putting coax/cat6/telephone outlets in the same place I always use these as it saves having multiple separate mounting boxes and plates and looks neater :D http://www.avoro.co.uk/female-coax-connector-module-eurofit-p-847.html...

Yes, as long as the junction box is suitable to spur off and it doesn't already have a spur branching off from it, which if there are 3 cables going into it on a ring final then there is.

Yes it would because someone may use it for something different in the future without checking the cable. If it's a socket circuit then more than likely either protected by a 20 or 32 amp mcb/30A fuse so the 1.5mm cable is not protected as it's only rated up to 15A.

The best way to do this for long runs is using a 'HDMI over Cat 5 HD Extender', it uses two normal cat 5e wires - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HDMI-over-Cat-5-HD-Extender-Transmitter-Receiver-50m-/190461360624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c5861b9f0

You will either have to have your CU replaced or have a separate CU added for the garage. RCD protection is a must. Are you planning to do this yourself? If so are you aware of Part P?

Do you mean a 3 pin plug? If so, it should really be an independent 15A circuit as it's a fixed appliance over 2KW.