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Quick update to this thread, went with 3mm secondary glazing - happy with the results. Any kind of lacquer/sealant would break down over time, this way I can be more confident of long term safety.

Just discovered there is a variety of DIY secondary glazing kits out there (like Magnetglaze) with different types of clips and trims. Think I will go down this road. Thanks all.

Thank you so much for that. I was just pondering moisture as potential issue. Confused about the pinhole, sorry I'm dense. If the new glazing is on the inside of the house, the pinhole is where? On the new glass itself?

Tell that to my eldest, she's four but could reach it at two! I make em tall. If I tell her something is dangerous she goes straight for it. Defiant little darling :D

You make a good point big-all. Part of my thinking is that secondary glazing will help with heating bills. Although I have some stained glass windows properly encapsulated in doubled glazed units (very expensive!), there are still some original windows left. Opps, good find with the wax, that...

Supposedly dust containing lead can accumulate over time. I've got a few windows high up in difficult to clean locations. I'm taking no chances with little ones - i should have done this earlier but it never occurred tbh. I'm not a fan of working with toxic chemicals like solvents. Wondered if...

Hello all, can anyone recommend a way to reliably seal the lead on internal stained glass windows/doors to keep them safe from small hands (and mouths!)? Also to prevent lead dust. I've attached an example of one of my doors. I know I could fit additional glass over and around but wondered if...

This room is finished now, thanks to everyone that gave me advice advice!

Posting some updates to this (very slow) build.

That wood is a noggin - there's a metal back box behind it where the cable comes out in the next room. It's a short run above the floor, so I thought the same as you but interested to hear what sparks had to say. Above that wood is just more Rockwool

Hello all, I'm renovating a bedroom and taken the opportunity to put a few more power sockets in the adjoining room (see pic). This is an internal stud wall - I've put Rockwool acoustic slabs in to dampen sound but now I'm thinking should I remove the 2 pieces of Rockwool I put either side of...

Brilliant gents thanks for that. I'm going to abandon downlights tbh and go with ceiling mounted lights. Great looking job noseall; I was wondering how to run the lighting power cables through the insulation - is that just a wooden block?

Thanks for the replies gents, that's given me something to chew on. Do I need vapour barriers if I'm using Celotex? Best strategy for downlights? Build out a void space?

I'm renovating our top bedroom and half the room is dormer style. I've no idea how to insulate this, could use some advice. The roof felt appears to be the old bitumen type. I'd obviously like the room to retain heat better but just as importantly, I want to reduce noise as we're on a main road...

Well the builder did it all so I guess he made life difficult for himself :lol:

Thanks chaps, I thought the tiles should overlap the upstand but apprently not.

Thanks chaps, this is a pic during construction, how does it look (zoom in):

Quick question - in my pic below does the velux installation look correct, especially in relation to the tiles and flashing kit? Thanks everyone.

Thanks for the help, actually I decided to bash it up in the end. Think I will span some new joist across the gap, overlapped and fixed to the existing joist and put down an 8x4" sheet of WBP ply as you suggested. I will put some DPC roll between new joist and brick though. Hopefully this will...

Bump, no one brave enough to comment on this thread then? :?