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No, don't use QS cement it will most likely crack the pan when it sets, just a normal sand and cement mix will be fine and you can level it up with pieces of old slate underneath. Leave for 12 hrs before use.

This type of noise in todays heating systems is almost always a worn valve the main question is finding which one it is? Try turning one of the valves off. If no bang then it's first time lucky. If it still bangs turn another off and so on until the bang stops whichever radiator valve stops the...

I think that you must have got it done OK by now V. For what it's worth here's my late reply (Sorry, I've been away)) I'd personally clean off the old silicone the best I could then fit the new one hand tight with no silicone. On the face of it it seems a dicey job but I've always managed to...

It really wants to be no further in than the outside of the soil pipe. Just chamfer the edge to ease it past the rubber seal and de-burr the inside. NB. Some bosses these days don't have a stop in them as I found out when leaving the apprentice to finish off and he shoved the waste pipe right...

You are right part C of the new should screw into D of the old thread without any problems. It just needs something to get a purchase on for a anti- clockwise turn, being a plumber I would cut a piece of 15mm copper tube the diameter of D and place one end over one of those 4 lugs or both this...

I have unscrewed the top thread (male) from the base of the trap(female) and managed to screw the new one (male) in place without any problems. Sounds a bit dicey I know but I was surprised how easy it was to do.

Silicone grease is what you need available from most plumbers merchants.

Not a bad idea at all.

You are correct it's not a gravity primaries system, however it's not working.

As a professional plumber with the bill payer's permission this is what I would propose to do for the fix. 1, Move that h/w mv to the primary return. 2, Take that high drop down out of the primary flow so that the flow pipe is level to the top primary flow connection to the cylinder. 3, Fit an...

After studying the initial diagram in great detail, the cold feed connection to the expansion tank would indeed give you some protection from an explosion if the boiler fired up with the h/w demand mv closed (satisfied) and the c/h mv still open (calling) for heat. Still not a good state of...

You need to have an open end to push the water out whilst you pump the air into the vessel - you can compress air but not a liquid. Get someone to hold the PRV open whilst you pump the air in is probably the less messy way of doing this but it's not the best way.

The circulating head is measured from the base of the heating expansion tank to the centre of the heat exchanger in the cylinder which must be very low with everything in the airing cupboard and that high loop in the flow reducing the head even lower. Check that air is not being pulled in from...

I missed this one. Johntheo5 is spot on! If that diagram is correct, and that HW MV ever shuts off the whole system then becomes a bomb. #1 Priority ASAP to move it. Surely no one fully qualified in plumbing will have done this.

I don't think that you have an air lock. From your diagram to me it looks like the system is lacking in "Circulating Head". You could try turning the speed on the pump up, however, I don't like that combined cold feed and expansion idea in connection with this. You could also gain a bit of CH by...

:D:D:D First post line three contains the answer:D! The human body can process a small amount of lead that it may intake from a lead water service (it is able to eject it via your own body hair and finger/toenails). So please do not lose anymore sleep over this one! :D

Now that's not what I said is it. Lead is a poison fact. I was giving very good advice to the poster who was very worried that he could be poisoned by ingesting lead from his lead water service. There are some real experts on here so please read their posts carefully and ye shall learn!

I'm a retired plumber therefore no longer qualified to do this work, however, looking at that picture the height of the new tiger loop in relation to the old one worries me. I would lower it down to at least the level of the old one and if possible, drop it down to floor level beside the boiler...

I'm a good but now retired plumber. If you slacken off the nut 3or 4 turns, then tightly wrap some PTFE tape (5 or 6 turns) around the thread in the gap created between the nut and the cistern then just tighten the nut back up again (almost 100% sucess rate). You'll have to turn the water off...

Running your condensing boiler on a lower temperature will mean the boiler runs more in the economy condensing mode than it normally would, thus it could indeed save you some money. The snag with this is that your radiators will never supply enough heat to allow the air to heat up enough to...