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I was surprised they came out, given the age, but to agree to, and, confirm they have the parts and then tell you that rubbish is unacceptable. It's not BER if it needs 2 readily available parts so I'd insist on the call out fee back - submit a complaint and ask them to review the recording of...

If it's PD just do it on a building notice. There's plenty on here who've built far more complicated extensions with little previous knowledge or experience. Familiarise yourself with the building regs and put your proposals on here - you'll undoubtedly receive more than enough detailed...

Done by a bloke called Tony on the back of an old council tax bill. Hasn't fallen down yet.

Thanks. I'm not a carpenter and I always butt joint skirts with a simple profile so I'm not worried about that. I'm going to fit the plinth after or i'll never get off if I trap it behind the skirting The doors won't open if the full height skirting is used. I did consider just having nothing...

.....or will it look ok when painted? No room for anything at the sides of the doors. I did initially try keeping the chamfered section but thought it looked slightly worse at the lower height.

My steels all slotted inside each other, like a very neat jigsaw, no plates or bolts.

You can get refurbished PCBs on eBay for around £50 (it's a 25E). You can also buy refurbished fans for £50 but they're rubbish (one of the companies kept fitting the motor in in the wrong orientation - it's different to other ideal fans) and the other must have used crap bearings as it failed...

Seen it on car sos. I presume it needs some interpretation - might say it's full of crankshaft metal, but you might have one of those bulletproof engines from the cavalier that will still run another 100k miles with no maintenance - makes you wonder where it all went wrong.

I had a similar 2 zone system and was advised to ditch the zones. I went for Wiser and although they do a HW plus two htg zone set up I fitted smart TRVs in the four bedrooms for £120 - so I was able to remove a zone valve from the system and gain individual room control upstairs. Downstairs is...

I'd probably just knock the block off and sit it on the wall.

The light coming on is good - it means the OBD has identified fault(s). Get them read and take it from there.

I would notch out those studs. If you do it low down it won't affect the rigidity of the wall. If you're not familiar with solvent weld use a decent branded compression elbow. Decide how and at what height you're going to connect to the stack (I think Macalpine do a pretty good mechanical boss...

I think you'd be best with a simple two part ramp with a fixed (for the duration of the visits) section on your property and a section that could be pulled out onto the road for a few minutes when required. Total length about 4.5- 5m long, constructed of marine plywood with 3x2 supports -...

Can't see why you'd replace any of that.

Have you left a 50mm ventilation gap above that rafter insulation?

If this is for your off grid cabin you might be better with a modern battery system like eufy - you would just need to power the hub and a 4/5g router.

The wall boards or plaster will support the ends of the ceiling boards - you don't need bits of wood.

I think I'd just do it curved.

Not sure I'd attempt hours of hard sanding with a battery tool but I've never tried.

It's probably 20-1 concrete mixed with mud and stones - what've got in your shed? Decent SDS, pickaxe, sledge hammer etc, find the heftiest thing and give it a try. If you get nowhere then work up. When we subbed for a tarmac contractor we would start with his power pack and then hire a big...