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I'm new to this as well, not sure how good my picture is but hopefully you can see how far you can sink the screws in without distorting the bead. Particularly the one on the right.

I think it's unavoidable in many situations, I suppose they'll just have to work a bit harder.. Our oven will be sandwiched between int. fridge and freezer. We're having handleless units which require a 30mm gap between them for the vertical rail so at least I can stick some celotex between them

I've read your various threads. You need to either ignore the recommendations in the survey (in which case why bother with it) or insist the recommended investigations and any remedial works are carried out at the sellers expense - (or the price adjusted to allow for you to do the work), or...

Maybe ask for this to be removed to the building section. Your timber lintel seems adequate, only needed over the door and should be under the wall plate not on top, maybe double up the vertical stud on the right. Alternatively an angle iron under the wall plate would also do the job. I'm not...

Yes.

You need to dig your holes and assess the ground before you decide.

If you have 1.5" deflection just make the sisters 1.5" deeper than the existing. Maximum deflection will be around mid span so your bits ending halfway up and halfway down will achieve nothing. Unless you are worried about shear (the existing rafters snapping at the ends) then the sisters can...

I bought a used oak dining table off eBay as a source of materials.

Unfortunately not near you, but my local steel stockholder has a fabrication shop - they'll sell you the steel and weld/drill it for you etc.

Get your engineer to spec a flitch plate and feed it in via the eaves. Assuming the two ends bearing on the walls are ok it's going to be a lot easier to repair rather than replace.

Foam it in. If your boards are T&G they're like to be splintered scrap when you pull them up so budget for possible replacement.

It's been a while since I did mine (at the time I studied www.pavingexpert.com and so became an "expert"). You haven't said what the deviation is, but if I recall the standard laying bed is 50mm +- only a small deviation because it sinks when you whack the blocks down whereas the MOT doesn't...

About £50 on eBay or Facebook - only of interest to a DIYer these days.

Google joist trimming - this is how you create the opening. I would moved it a bit away from the wall as you'll need to fit a trim (like a door architrave) round the opening. Size of opening will be determined by the size of hatch you've bought or made.

Looks like "everything" Maybe a few 8x2's across the 3m span on hangers or ledgers if it's being boarded and fairly heavily loaded? Can't see the point of the vertical posts next to perfectly good walls.

We're having one in our new kitchen (wife's choice, influenced by her brother who has one). When we stayed at his house I had 2 issues - firstly, when trying to fry an egg it switched off every time I lifted the pan to baste it - maybe my technique! Secondly, on his version (can't remember which...

Looks a bit "bedroom heavy" to me, I'd consider moving a bedroom into the loft and converting bedroom 1 or 2 into additional living space.

Is there more than one way? I've laid cable in like this: but have seen this: I'm not really bothered as long as it works and have loads of 3C+E to use up. Obviously the second diagram using red for all the cables is about as much use a a chocolate teapot for a DIYer. Thanks.

Nothing wrong with that, if it's being boarded with plasterboard from the left hand wall you'll probably need to make sure nothing projects more than about 10-15mm.

Orange light it usually means it's driveable. Obviously not ideal to do so over a long distance but if needs must! I'd be seeing what my policy covers in the first instance - I've seen people thousands out of pocket in this situation - failed repairs, weeks to get parts, onward recovery not...