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Kevin is right, your installer is the only one who can notify his own work, to the building inspector. I'd suggest contacting your local building inspector, at your council and asking for advice, they may be able to inspect & issue a certificate.

also ensure system is balanced correctly.

F28 is a flame failure. (failed to ignite) about only thing you can check, is that you have gas, do you have a card meter, is there credit? If a credit meter, check handle in on position.

the cylinder stat should be fitted about a third of the way up from the bottom. Check the immersion heater is switched off.

I;d never fit a boiler buddy! The magnacleans are all supplied with improved black valves, they did have problems with the red valves. Twin tech is probably about 30 more than a standard one.

have you tested the hot water temperature at the tap with a thermometer? 60c is very hot to put your hands in, to give you an indication, a jacuzzi is set at 36c. As suggested, check the cylinder stat is touching the cylinder. If the water is really too hot, then i;d suggest you change...

of course you can fit a wireless stat. You have two options, fit a wireless stat, for use with current programmer. Fit a wireless programmable stat, and replace your programmer with a single channel one for hot water control.

and just to throw open another discussion... how about the magnaclean Twin Tech, same as the magnaclean, but includes an extra gauze filter to catch non metallic things

I think its a personal opinion, I;d recommend the 837, as about 150 more which isnt so much in the whole scheme of things. As stated, will give a better flow rate, filling your bath quicker.

That is a very good price, i pay more than that trade at my local merchant, as a account holder

Its not essential to have the system flushed before fitting a maganclean, it all depends how bad your sludge problem is. The cost of a powerflush depends upon your system, but I'be be looking about 300-400 pounds incl vat & chemicals. I;d question your system design, if its built up sludge...

thats impossible to answer! how much pipework, do you mean everything from boiler onwards? all depends how compliacted pipe runs are!

On a sealed system, then you should be able to have a long horiziontial run, I;d take the pressure upto about 2bar, to compress the air, bled again from those high air vents. It may be, gassing, with can be caused by a dirty system, so gas is being created. Every combi/system boiler has...

it is fine to a 418 on a sealed system, a sealed system shouldn;t be collecting any air in at all. the right equipment, means a fill loop to BS, an expansion vessel sized to system, a pressure relief valve, and a pressure guage. Automatic air vents shouldn;t be necessary, on a sealed system.

its advised that any lead found on the drinking water system is removed, and of course only lead free solder can be used on drinking supplies.

remember that on a compression joint its only the olive that seals it, not the thread

seems most things are covered then. could be a minute leak, letting air in

choice of gasket sheets HERE

its never an easy job!

I guess a rubber sheet, cut with a shape knife, using circular things as a guide