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I'm after a bit of advise and thought there would be some good opinions on here. Quite a lot of my kitchen units have absorbed water at the base due to a recent problem with a pipe flooding the kitchen. It's covered by insurance, but there are two different points of view between my surveyor...

I'm intending to replace 7 windows this year, they're all on the first floor and absolutely ancient. Some have been intentionally sealed shut because they are so fragile, I've been told they're about 100 years old. So I want to get replacement windows. Approx window sizes are 1.5m x 1m (3 of)...

It's four rooms downstairs that have the UFH. The existing rads therefore go nowhere near this room, adding to the pain of installing an auxiliary rad.

There is some insulation under the screed I believe. Had to dig up a bit of the kitchen floor (which also has UFH installed at the same time) and there was a small layer of celotex (20mm if I remember) underneath the screed.

It is a grey pipe and about 20mm diameter; the UFH is 'working' in the other 3 rooms it is installed in though. This is the temperature on the flow and return on the manifold to the boiler. There isn't a 20c difference on the flow/return of the loops though, I can tell you this by touching...

The water going through the UFH is already quite hot - 65c flow and 62c return at the manifold. I think if I put the overall temperature up it would effect the comfort of other areas by getting them too hot. Yes, there is underlay. I didn't fit any of this though, we bought the house in this...

I've got an underfloor heating installation in a room in my house. In the recent cold weather, it hasn't been able to raise the temperature more than 15c above outside. The room is about 30m^2 in area, and about 7m^2 does not have underfloor due to built in cabinets. It is an extension built...

OK, glad to say this is all resolved now. Fitted a UPS 25-80 180 pump (230 volt version) and on its maximum output this has brought the maximum temperature delta down to 23c on the boiler. (Took a week for the pump to get delivered, just fitted it this evening.) This is marginally outside...

Thanks for the comprehensive & thorough response, all makes sense now. Will get the pump on order and fit it ASAP.

I assume that this would be caused as the house gets up to temperature, valves close, head reduces, the pump speed drops and temperature delta across the heat exchanger increases above the defined limits. (Or maybe I mean valves are open in a cold house, and head is small.)

Does anyone make constant flow pumps? Or does such a thing not exist?

Thanks :)

The Magna 25-60 and 25-100 seem to be fundamentally more efficient than the UPS series, even when running at a constant output. So they are probably more economical pumps to go for over a longer term, which is what I'm thinking about. (This is why I'm thinking about a Magna, not because I want a...

Can I ask how you have calculated the Magna 25-60 would be sized correctly? My preference would be to have a simpler system with a single pump (and less electrical consumption) even if the intial cost is higher.

What would be the recommended course of action... new pump? If so, how big? Rebalance system? Powerflush?

OK, I've downloaded the manual for the Mexico Super FF 4125, the old boiler. The flow rate graph is in l/min versus pressure loss in feet. It's a straight line, which you can approximate as: pressure loss = (0.09ft * litres/min) - 0.5ft Therefore I've calculated the loss at 1.6m^3/hr as...

Sorry it's taken a while to get back on these - been having problems finding the manual for my old boiler. (There is a good torrent with 100s of manuals online here: http://www.torrentportal.com/details/1385566/&filelist=1) 1. The old boiler was an Ideal Mexico Super 4125 FF. (36.6kw, 78.5%...

d1 - I can't change this as there is no control cable for pump overrun.=-Well, I could change it but it wouldn't help much. :) There is no d71 in the manual...

I'm 99% sure I've got one of these. There are three Ts with zone valves off from the flow side upstairs. There's a fourth T with a white hand-adjustable thing on made by Myson. It's about 1.5cm diameter.

What should the next course of action be? I think the current pump isn't sufficient anyway; my reasoning is that the boiler on its own produces a resistance of 4.05m at the 1.633m^3/hr desired flow rate. At this flow, the most resistance the pump can cope with on its highest setting is...