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you can have a laminate worksurface with a square or postform edge - most of the square edge ones I've seen are in two pieces. It could also be a composite worksurface. Any chipboard core surface is going to be damaged if not installed or looked after correctly

I'm a joiner/general builder - I have the Makita you suggested, great bit of kit. Only router I own so used for everything - about 5 years old and still going strong

Exactly - paint and varnish seal a lot better, you will have no problem on the kitchen, apply about 3 or 4 coats of danish oil (thin coats and buff) really nice finish

If your oak floor is floating the joints will be glued, if you oak floor is nailed to joists - how are you going to re-use it?? In my experience once you take up wooden flooring it's not much good for anything except the fire.

They will be fine finished with oil - unless it's a damp environment like a bathroom. Manufacturers cover there back stating varnish or paint as it helps stop any moisure entering the door thus causing it to twist or warp. Danish oil is a blend of oils - it's thinner and builds to a nice lustre...

I'm sorry but the Agent did not get a Joiner to do this. As someone stated it's a £20/30 handyman job - not the work of a joiner!!

If you use scribe the joints (with router and jig) you are machining both joints for a perfect fit. If you just butt the joints you are assuming the edges of you new worktop are perfect. They won't be Hope this helps Also you can buy adjustable worktop jigs so if you kitchen is out of...

You should have no problems finishing veneered doors with oil or wax, sounds stupid but are you sure the doors are not pre-finished? Dont use teak old - use Danish oil