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It's a shop and I don't need gas, plus it's position was in the way. They charge you a daily rate while you have a meter even if you have nothing connected to it. Shop's opening 2nd April. I need the pipe gone before then www.gadgettree.co

Yes this pipe comes straight in through the front wall and used to have a meter on it. They took the meter away for the bargin price of £180! Fair enough, it did take them nearly five minutes.

I have a blanked off gas pipe sticking into my new shop and I want it removed. I had the meter removed last year, but the quote for removing the pipe was £900. (They said they would have to dig up the busy road) I then left it a while and it will soon be a year. I have now been told that...

Thanks "negative head pump" -It's much easier to find things on the internet when you have the right key words; I will try this. If I can't find a pump. Your second suggestion is a cool alternative. I have no loft, but as it is a shop, noise will not be a problem

I have a 500 litre water tank in the cellar, filled with rain water. It is on a plinth so I can mount an external pump 400mm below it's invert level The pump would then have to lift the water about 2m to fill a toilet cistern. It does not need to fill fast, so a high flow rate is not...

I have to disagree, glued in wedges will turn the board into a single membrane, if it's sealed well, I'd give it another 100 years. Gluing wood together with PVA under pressure will give you a solid joint and no-way, no-how will they ever 'fall out'; that's like suggesting plywood will just...

I don't mind a bit of wear. I would be happy with a worn or distressed look, it's opaque patches where the varnish has chipped and damp got under it that looks bad.

I would cut (or buy) long thin wedges of wood, cover them in glue and hammer them into the gaps. When dry, chisel off whatever is protruding, then sand the lot down. It will look good, stiffen the floor and give you a good finish for whatever sealent you use

I am sanding down old floorboards in a retail shop and I need some advice on the finish. The sanded floorboards will have a logo stained into them, then I want to seal the boards with a low maintenance, clear finish. Obviously being a shop it will have a high foot traffic. At home on my Oak...

All sorted. The fan is attached to a plate that is supposed to sit in a channel on both sides. It was just jammed in. I eventually managed to lever it out. Took the motor apart, oiled the dry bearings. Straightened the plate out so it slid easily back into the channels. All working...

Thanks for that sugestion, I'd never have thought of that. But back to reallity. It's very simple, Iv'e never taken this fan out of this type of boiler before. Before I try a 'little harder', I was hoping for some advice as to which way I should try. The manual states "slide it down" I...

Hi My fan bearings have gone in the above boiler. The Servicing instructions for the boiler state: c. Unscrew and remove the two screws securing the fan assembly to the interpanel d. Slide the fan assembly downwards, rotate the top forwards, and slide the assembly up and out of the...

The purlin spans from wall to wall, working as a simple beam. The largest bending stress is in the middle, (That's why you can notch a beam at the ends.) taking one tenth of the depth of the beam for a third of it's length would not affect it's structural capacity in the slightest (assuming...