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Sounds like the valve is seized, you should have tried moving it when you had the actuator off.

Cleaned some up the other day with a Stanley knife and wire wool, came up a treat. Sorry, did I say I did I meant the apprentice :wink:

Why do some posters start with "don't shout at me if I make mistakes" Believe it or not we don't expect you to understand plumbing terminology, just like we probably wouldn't understand if we asked a question about your job. Don't worry there's no such thing as a daft question :wink:

Sounds like a blockage. Time to have the bath panel off and have a look. Does the sink drain ok?

What's the pressure reading on the boiler? Did he vent any radiators? Sounds like the vent could be slightly open.

Do you mean the olives? As said pictures would help.

Forgot to say did the guy come recommended by someone?

Not really that much extra work if your lucky the brackets that hold the radiator to the wall may have both been fastened via the elongated holes which will allow the up and down position of the radiator. It may just give you that little bit of extra movement that you need.

Use an angle grinder to cut the pipe. Be careful not to let any pieces fall down the stack pipe. What floor are you putting down? And how thick is it?

Could be air,maybe hydrogen a bi-product of iron oxide. What colour is the water that comes out when you bleed it? What type of system do you have?

It's always advisable to call in a pro if your not sure as water can cause a lot of damage if not worked on properly. Trust me I've seen enough disasters :wink:

You could always try nipping up the gland nut under the flat head screwdriver bit if thats where its leaking from but just be gentle with it.

Fresh water has oxygen in it which will corrode the system components like the radiators on the inside, inhibitor helps prevent this from happening. How many valves are leaking? Upstairs or downstairs? How long has it been happening? They look like 3/4" so a suitable valve that size would be...

I would drain the system, change valves then top up and add inhibitor being as you have been topping up with fresh water quite a lot.

Try taking the rads off and flushing them with a garden hose, then add a chemical cleaner like X400. It's also best to get the crud out of the feed and expansion tank as well trying not to let any fall down the cold feed pipe.

The level in the cold water storage cistern would make a difference to the flow rate from the hot water. The reason I said check the ball valve was because it may not have been replenishing the water if it wasn't operating correctly. The fact that it is dripping could indicate a worn washer...

Have you had any work done on the hot water which required turning off the gate valve on the cold feed to the bottom of the cylinder? Check water level in the CWSC and also correct operation of ball valve. If that's ok hold your hand over the mixer tap with a towel,turn on the hot then the...

If there is water in the feed and expansion tank then the cold feed will be blocked. If the cold feed is blocked its probably from sludge being pulled down from the tank as you were losing water. The system and the tank could probably do with a good clean. Photos will help us point you in the...

Tank stat should be set at 60-65 degrees.

Not if it is only letting by a little, you probably would have flushed the toilet before if would overflow. Try isolating the supply if you can and see if it stops.