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As a guess i would say its either your 3 way valve passing to CH when in HW only mode or If you have an S plan set up then your CH zone valve is passing to HW, you could have reverse circulation if your cylinder isnt lass Tee in b4 the boiler, however this would have always been a problem you...

Ha ha oh yes sorry, always forget the dam screw

Are you crazy, seriously there is no way a company of that size would send an unqualified guy to do the work, they are strigently checked and rechecked by the HSE and they would never send sum1 without the relevent qualification, not a chance on this earth, also just because you have done the...

If you isolate the water under the boiler CW inlet open hot mixers and they should run dry, if cold side is passing in should carrry on running and running and running at atleast 1 of the taps

Did you reconnect micro-switch properly? May have been loose and now fell off?

Never seen it myself, looks good but????????????? who knows, my arse would be twitching, filling a system connected with that for the 1st time

Ahhhhhhhhhhh for FU.CK sake wish id of read tHAT 1ST

Yeah but you dont need to drain and refill every 6 months, just do it when it starts dripping from the pressure relief valve, all you do is turn off the stopcock next to cylinder open your hw taps then drain and turn stop cock bk on and your bubble will reform, you dnt even have to be qualified...

If you have a good main that is, also cant reverse flow using mains, also uses alot of water, but can stll do a good job, good mains pressure usually better than that given by domestic powerflushing machine pump and can cost upto £700 depending on who does it, but remember you get what you pay...

It deff didnt read that way to me, i was trying to work out what you meant but???????? :o :o

No a chemical will need adding to loosen all the iron oxide bulid up in you system, usually via header tank, radiator, filling loop, depending on set up, this ideally run around system for 7 - 10 days, then a flush machine needs connecting to your system, where you will flush the system in one...

I was always taught to add the "soldering Iron" :lol: at the opposite side to the flame where poss, then the solder will run to the heat, but now ive seen his technique, i may have to use it :lol: (sarcasm) :roll:

I drilled through a stone wall once with a core drill and a diamond bit and it took me 5 hours it was about 3 foot thick, glad i live in the city, not many stone houses in machester, thank god

Well take your Tee straight up then put a short peice of pipe in to it, then connect an elbow, with another short piece of pipe coming out of the otherside of the elbow, then connect the hockey stick trap th the end of that, then it will all sit against your wall and stick out no further than...

Seems more than fair to me for what you have said, i would charge that in manchester, never mind london

Tell me its not a battery drill, because if it is going through a wall that thick and it being stone :cry: :cry: good luck you will need it

What size are the pipes 8 or 10mm, are they copper pr plastic, how big are the problem rads

Ha ha what a **** i look sorry, its just a pump proving switch isnt it

I am talking about m90e.24s G.C. 47 970 17 it has a motor operated diverter and it has the microswirch in the clear housing on the front, where the moisture gATHERS am i on the right boiler, if its that G.C. no then what i said stands

Butnits not a condensing boiler for a start, people who buy 2nd hand boilers, dont usually get a RGI to fit it do they? unless they have a brother or something, they dnt want to pay thats why they buy 2nd hand ****e