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Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a thermostatic mixer shower, similar to the Bristain below, that has a markings on the dial to note how far up the temperature range you are. All the ones I seem to keep finding are pretty plain, so I would have no way to tell if it's set to where I want...

Yes, looks ok to me too. I'd say that shows that 57v to the boiler Switched Live is enough to fire the boiler, but you should have zero volts to the boiler Switched Live when you turn hot water and heating off. The lever doesn't always move, but the fact that you have 240v on the grey wire...

ok, just thought it was worth checking to see if it was any better with the old valve head back on in case it confirmed an issue with the new heads. With regards to the low voltages on Grey and White depending on the mode. It's enough to turn some boilers on, but neither of those go to the...

I see what you mean with the new 40003916-003 valve head being compatible with the V4073A series body. There's nothing I can think of which stands out. It is strange how 2 slightly different heads are creating 2 different problems though. At this rate I think you're going to need an Electrician...

Both of those Nest and valve head voltages are still ok. Don't worry about the the low voltage readings as they are reduced voltages where power goes through a diode and a couple of resistors in the valve head so you don't get the full AC waveform or voltage in certain modes. You're only...

It does sound like the motorised head works differently then. Fingers crossed that the new one fixes it properly when it arrives.

No problem. Does that mean the system is working ok for the moment with the old motorised head back on? If so, then there may well be a difference between the two models. I always try to replace like for like just in case of compatibility issues.

Based on those readings I can confirm that the NEST is outputting ok in all heating modes. I suspect a red herring. I bet if you were to disconnect the wire at terminal 3 under this condition then the wire would be live, but terminal 3 itself would not be. This is a back feed from the valve...

It's a decent system, but not as straight forward as others, so it confuses a lot of heating engineers. . The state of your wiring centre probably isn't helping the engineers diagnosis though. It really needs a proper tidy up and to make sure that the terminal block follows the same order of the...

Did it work ok when the Nest Heat Link was replaced before the 3-port valve was changed? . I suspect you have a Y-Plan system with an additional 2-port valve to protect the cylinder from turning into a kettle in the event of a fault. See:-...

The fans will be running on the permanent live (brown). So if you measure the switched live (black) to neutral you can confirm that the switched supply and feed from one fan to the other is off, therefore proving that the fan which won't turn off is faulty (or at least the humidistat isn't...

So I can stop panicking after tripping the RCD when using the Fluke for the first time and not look at replacing it then?

Yes it's a 1653, I've only just got it. The later B models have a no trip test function for getting a Zs. I'm just wondering how it differs to what I can do on mine so that I don't go round inadvertently tripping customers RCD while I go round getting a Zs.

Thanks What I'm trying to get my head around is if the Fluke's non trip test function is a totally different function to what my meter has, or if it's just another way of performing a 3 lead low current test as what I don't want to happen is me going round tripping peoples RCD's while trying to...

Thanks again. I would be interested to know what the difference between the 3 lead L-PE test is compared to the later models No Trip test.

The measurement in the 2nd photo was from one of the ring sockets, although the Fluke shows 0v and no PFC when you disconnect the meter from the circuit. Good shout to use the 2 lead test on L-PE, although strange it didn't trip if it's a high current test, which I agree with as it's much...

Thanks gents. I'm new to Fluke and today is the first time I've a chance to use it properly, but I get the F1 setting which toggles between the L-PE 3 wire test and L-N 2 wire test. I suppose my questions are what use is the L-N test when I'm trying to carry out an EFLI test. And why does the 3...

Does anyone know if it's possible to do Zs testing of circuits with the Fluke 1653 below? It's tripping the 30mA RCD when testing the circuits and the meter doesn't have a No Trip test function. Have I bought the wrong meter?

Thanks gents. I'd ordered the AD107 just before reading the latest comment, but there's plenty of height in the board.