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If it's a 20K+ kitchen just pay a plumber less than 1% of the total cost to do a proper job in copper.

I would argue it does. After the first year it's the responsibility of the manufacturer to sort warranty issues, not the seller. In reality this happens from day one. There's no such thing as a warranty expiring after 12 months, the sale of goods act means it must last a reasonable time. Where...

You can try ordering from Heating World of Spares, although they are trade only. Just under £50 inc VAT. It might also be worthwhile getting hold of some silicone grease for the rubber o ring, it sits on the copper valve body the flow switch screws onto.

Push both chrome 'buttons' on the seat then wiggle/pull it off. From there the chrome caps come off the pins through the pan, and then you can tighten the screws. They are a crap design and you will always struggle to get them really tight, and stay that way.

You might find the rubber washer's stuck on the drain off valve so it's only draining very slowly. If it is stuck the only way to get it off is jamming a screwdriver or similar into the valve from the end you undo and dislodging it - trying to catch the water that goes everywhere.

If you can get away with it I wouldn't bother changing the nut on the copper pipe going into the TRV/lockshield. You normally find the olive has been compressed to much to get off anyway. You can only re-use if the nut and inserted distance match. Same for the tails in the rad if they are really...

Just buy it on ebay, much cheaper than any merchant, as long as you don't mind the labels missing It all comes from unscrupulous subbies not putting it into system, understandable with the awful rates they are being paid.

Have you sat down and worked out the cost of running electric underfloor heating - it's astronomical. It will be fine to cap pipes, but better to try and find where it joins main run and cap there if possible.

If you're only ever running one tap at a time there's an argument for fitting a combi. Generally a cheaper installation, cheaper running costs. and I wouldn't say it's any less reliable when you consider there's plenty of parts to go wrong on an un-vented cylinder.

Go with the Independent + out of those choices, 7 year warranty and better than any Vaillant.

Only pay an engineer on satisfactory completion, and in circumstances like this either pay by cheque or credit card - that way you can issue a charge-back or cancel the cheque. I'm always amazed that an engineer will charge for parts & labour that hasn't fixed the problem, and also why a...

Just get an induction hob and never look back. Otherwise about £100 sounds right.

And yet some even provide a tube of lubricant in the box. I'm betting they say water only because they can't guarantee every single lubricant on the market wont cause damage.

Didn't know about the extended warranty so thanks for that! Have you fitted/come across a Hounsfield boiler? I quite like the Grant boilers, Warmflow are also ok. Unfortunately there's no manufacturer out there that makes a really good oil boiler that stands out above the rest. I wouldn't...

Ask a couple of engineers for a quote, when they come round tell them you've been told the back boiler is leaking and offer a tenner if they will remove the fire to check. You might find someone willing to oblige. There's no problem with a boiler in the loft, just make sure it's suitable...

I couldn't say if they were prohibited or not. To be honest I'm not even sure why I don't use them- I always use a HepVo trap where a trap is required in a unusual run, and I agree they are far to expensive for what they are.

Then I would just chalk it up to experience, don't pay them a penny and leave as many bad reviews as you can online/talking to people. Bad news always travels much quicker than good .

Just use a HepVo trap instead of any other, assuming you have the room to fit it.

A 14 year old vaillant might not require a door seal to be replaced when opening the combustion cover, but there really is no excuse for not taking the outer case off. Did he issue paperwork with the engineers name on, and their gas safe number. If he isn't listed under the gas safe number...

I assumed he meant the outer case , not the combustion chamber door/panel/case. If it's an older Vaillant I always take the combustion panel off as well to check insulation panels are in good condition.