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I'd be interested to learn which regulation number says this.

-sigh- Are you taking your situation, with endless green but not well understood add-ons, to be representative of the typical household? Or are you just trying to demonstrate how, by spending enough on an installation, you can reduce the cost of electricity?

I suspect you need an intermediate 2 gang switch instead of what you bought. I believe they are available in the same range.

You seem to be comparing apples and oranges. Gas comes in at about 7.3p / kWh and if you don't make any special arrangement electricity is typical over 29p / kWh. I'm sure you can do the sums.

@Taylortwocities Where did you get that last picture of under my floor?

The UFH will have been designed to run at a sensible, non foot burning, temperature in the worst case condition. The pipes will be slightly hotter than the floor by the laws of physics, but not likely much hotter than 30C. The floor pipes themselves will not be made hotter by legionnaires...

This is an interesting demonstration of the mentality of your typical internet conspiracy theorist. In this case someone who shall be nameless, but he knows who he is, is proposing that all the (one assumes non-associated) manufacturers of such items as MCBs got together (illegally) and decided...

It's my understanding, from other websites, that Wylex have been saying this, in published documents, for years. I also note that Hager show two columns for torquing, one for PZ and one for SL. It makes no sense to me to 1) invent a new screw just because some other vendor is using them and 2)...

Yes, that's the point, it's a bad design.

Half of it is.

Well, not really. Given the starting point, that the screws were already in use, the screwdrivers turn out to be necessary to torque the screws without damage. As you haven't tried them you won't know how solid they feel in use. And the screws found their first application in furniture assembly.

I've had a set of those since I redid my house wiring many years ago. I don't know how you are supposed to cope with a consumer unit otherwise. The history seems somewhat vague, as witnessed by the variety of names: modulo, plus-minus, positive-negative, zeno SL/PH or zeno SL/PZ etc etc. They...

"Removing the RCD will result in a dangerous situation in which people could be injured or killed."

Yes, I never spent much time thinking about it; but if you join base and collector, then for a given current, the current through the base will reduce by the gain of the transistor, which could be as much as, say, 50 as the transistor is not actually quite saturated. This should result in the...

Change from slightly over 0mA to 10mA (i.e. twice the current change while reducing the voltage drop change by nearly seven times compared with the transistor b-e diode example). And yes, sorry about the typo. I'm not sure why anyone would consider not connecting the base to collector when it...

FYI the 5V USB supply is specified as being between 4.75V and 5.5V. So this is the range you need to aim for to guarantee operation.

Not really. A 1N4001 diode has a junction specifically designed to take a large current, unlike a junction transistor. So it will not vary in voltage nearly so much. .

I was looking at his most recent posts 20 and 21. It would be a lot less consistent.

I think he was saying the opposite.

This is what Spice says: