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Thanks for all the responses. The chamber was backed up. Called out Yorkshire water who have cleared the blockage. Caused by "flushable" wipes. All running fine now, thanks again.

It's my understanding that the drain into the chamber is my responsibility. The chamber & downstream is the responsibility of Yorkshire Water. Hopefully the chamber will not be clear, and I can call them in (although with Christmas & Covid who knows when they'll get out).

couldn't think of anything else that would cause a blockage. No previous issues. Never use "flushable" wipes. Why else would a blockage appear out of nowhere? (genuine question). Would have through if chamber full first flush of the day would be fine as it would have drained away slowly...

Thanks for the responses. I'll check the manhole. If that chamber is flooded I suppose I'll be getting thew water board in. If not I suppose it could be a collapsed drain somewhere between my soil stack and the chamber - hopefully not, that sounds expensive.

Is within 3m of an opening window, so has to have a valve fitted. The existing one is precisely the one that you linked to. The valve itself seems to move freely (taken off and shaken). I've WD40'd the movable part, but no better. It opens and closes easily, but don't know if that's all there...

It's external. Short stack on outside wall (it's a bungalow so unfeasible to put to above roofline).

Hi All, When I flush the toilet, it is slow draining. If I remove the Air admittance valve (so that the top of the soil stack is open), the flush is normal. Is this just a failure of the Air admittance valve? If replacing, would any 110mm Air admittance valve be suitable? or should I replace...

Update: I traced the circuits. From each switch there was a switched live, and a neutral. One switched live was for the lighting circuit, the other for the pond. The two switched lives went to a junction box in the garage. Both switched lives were connected to the circuit going to the...

Thanks for all the responses. I can't understand how it could be water ingress. As I said, the pump works fine. Only part of the light which is outside (only one connected at the moment), is the short length of wire coming through the wall, which I've checked, and it is not frayed or wet...

Many thanks, Just a case of removing the old one & replacing like for like? Do these just "go" after a certain age? (I think these have been in place for 15 years or so).

Apologies, Yes, it is an MCB.

I take it the question marks indicate you want clarification? Total load, taking the power rating of everything on that circuit into account, is less than 4A, the MCB is rated to 6A. Pond Pump = 500W Pond UV light = 18W External lights = 150W + 150W Total = 818W = c3.4A I rounded up.

I have a circuit protected by a 6A RCD for all power to the outside of the house. On this circuit are two security lights, a pond pump, and a pond UV light. The external lights are via one switch inside the house, the pond equipment via another. When the pond circuit is on at the switch...

Thanks Chri5, You have put my mind at rest. I will probably fuse at 5A as I'd rather fuse on the low side if I won't need the additional current. Didn't think it would be a problem, but nice to have it confirmed.

Thanks BaS. Its a bungalow, so all the socket rings should be in the loft, I just have to identify the correct one under the boarding. There is a socket in the loft already (believe it or not, the power for the combi-boiler runs via a plug in this socket so no socket in the boiler...

OK, thanks. I'll try to pick up an existing ring for the socket in the loft Doh !OK to spur from an existing lighting ring (hadn't even considered it to be honest). OK, will keep then seperate. You are of course correct - it is a 20A mcb

I have a radial (only on set of 2.5mm cable to the Consumer Unit) which runs to my garage (which is attached to my house. This *may* extend out to the garden (from a junction box in the garage). I would like to provide power & a permanent light fitting in my loft and this is the most...