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I wouldn't worry about the 85mm overhang. I'd board tight(ish) to the external, run a bead of no nails or blob at 200mm centres along the joint. Technically it's 'fixed'. Tied in with scrim to the plastered wall it's not going anywhere.

I don't think you need to worry especially as you've removed the existing. Weight wise I'd hazard that what you've removed won't be a million miles away from what you're replacing it with. It's likely also the joists far exceed the original fibreboards bearing. It's an assumption though, but...

@DIYalot if you're a perfectionist I'd be more focused on those battens fixed directly to the existing wall. You are more concerned about what you will never see as opposed to what you will see :-). You will never see timber battens fixed directly to walls by a professional commercial...

Sorry mate but it begs the question...Why did you leave an 18mm gap when you went through all the effort of using rockwool and 15mm soundblock/shield? Nevermind, I'm sure there was good reason:-) What you need is mastic. Google Knauf mastic to give you an idea. It will improve your 'acoustic...

I'm assuming your fixing res bar to existing joists? If so fix them perpendicular to said joists with a coarse thread screw. Fix boards to res bar with a fine thread drywall screw. Important note when fixing boards to res bar is the screw should never fix through the res bar and the stud/joist...

With few exceptions boards always go vertical on studs be them metal or timber. Exceptions typically being board type i.e. 'plank' ,stud centres or mitigating waste on multiple 'skin' partitions etc. Ceilings, the opposite is true and boards should always run perpendicular to joists. Judging...

You could just get a 2 part resin to fill the holes. The resin will dry hard as 'f*ck'. Harder than any sand or cement mix. Then fix into that. As you've already made a big hole anyway, make sure the resin has something to 'key into' i.e. 'dig in' behind the hole at 45ish degrees. There might be...

Based on what I see and it possibly being tanked I would avoid fixing through this 'membrane'. I'd suggest just lining it with 50mm stud (as you won't need to penetrate the existing) with a 12.5mm plasterboard. For such a small area I'd use Duplex board as the extra expense is not worth...

I think I get what you're getting at. You're using a Kingspan/celotex type insulation I'm guessing. Method 1 will work fine. Cut a square/rectangular hole flush to each joist and slide said insulation into the runs. Fix a lath/timber to each joist and board abutments to allow re-fixing of...

@kevinsmbuk Exactly mate. That's what 'hindsight' is. It's an 'appreciation' of a mistake. A mistake drills home a lesson. 'I won't f'ing do that again!'. Part and parcel to DIY.

18k is absolutely ridiculous. Even if it were, it's the insurance companies liability...not yours. Ignore it. They are, imo , trying to intimidate/manipulate you.They want you to give them £100. If you have a leak, then, of course, you must seek to remedy it and inspect the damage it has caused...

Hmmm... typically if boarding to timber frame or metsec/SFS( structural metal equivalent to structural timber) then the vapour barrier is applied directly and boarded. But in your case I would err on the side of caution and fit the vapour barrier behind the battens simply because it wouldn't be...

I only work on the commercial side and not house building but I assume the practices are the same. It's almost standard practice to create an external 'envelope' using a vapour barrier. Visqueen is the trade sheet but it's simply a polythene sheet. This is used primarily for the 'air seal' of a...

I would advise against dot and dab adhesive as it's simply not intended for that application. You could use a grab adhesive but I would advise against that also. I'd do as Tigercubrider suggested and use a mechanical fix and you could use a polythene sheet to act as a vapour barrier. If you are...

None of this is surprising unfortunately. The vast majority of tradesmen in construction are self employed. Such as myself. We have very little rights as compared to employees such as work based pensions, holiday pay, redundancy, sick pay etc. The travesty is , from my experience at least, that...

I think by DPM you're referring to Visqueen (or similar plastic sheeting). This is pretty much the done thing nowadays. Either that or Duplex board which is simply plasterboard with a foil backing. There's is no harm in applying either to an external wall but not likely necessary to an internal...

I've managed to upload. Hope this is helpful cheers

@sircerebus666 @gasbanni All he said was that the readings were high and that the boiler was 'at risk'. I'm definitely going to get another opinion 'without giving the game away'. Good advice cheers. I'll get it serviced again by another engineer I've used in the past. It'll cost me £60 but...

@23vc Just tried to provide an informative answer based on what was presented mate with the idea being it could be beneficial to someone stumbling upon this thread in the future. Hence why suggested which boards to use based on determined centres etc. Hence why I described how to find joist...

@sircerebus666 Thanks for the reply. I suspected it was quite expensive. Not sure what he meant by the readings. Only that they were high and that he'd changed gaskets to no avail. There's black marks on the ceiling above the boiler that's caused by this he said.