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Hello My loft was boarded in the 1990s with tongue and groove 18mm chipboard. It’s actually a dormer bungalow so the “loft” is narrow and actually not boarded but the eaves are 2m wide and approx 20m long at a guesstimate. It’s a useful storage space but beneath is inaccessible as it’s the...

How did you end up doing this please?

I've got cables and copper pipes below too, not just the plastic waste. Hoping things are done properly is what id expected when I paid a small fortune getting this done in the first place. Hope is no longer an option. I appreciate it's better to have solid concrete but it's simply not...

Directly onto mortar, on top of the ply, which is on top of the 6x4's beneath ? yep, that's what i'm going to do . That will give enough room to maintain the wastes etc.

Yeah, but that doesn't allow me to raise up the tray does it - I have to raise the tray, so the options are riser kit or timber frame. I can't use the riser kit for aforementioned reasons, so timber frame it is. Mira provide specific instructions for timbers at "minimum 300mm centres" (I think...

Also the weird thing with this mira shower tray is that they are saying to silicon the tray to the plywood base, and silicon the wood blocks to the floor - basically silicon the crap out of everything. Every video i've seen has said not to silicon and to use either tile adhesive with a...

Fair enough, but i'm replacing like for like in this instance. In any case, this is bathroom number 3, so it is not the main bathroom. I'll be redoing the upstairs bathrooms myself (no chance i'm trusting anyone with that job after the mess and bodgefest downstairs) and i may put those at floor...

Why? For extra info Its a brick cubby of approx 830mm x 830mm x 2440mm and was a shower, raised, when we moved here in 2010. We then had it redone as part of a (very expensive) bathroom refurb in 2018 and it was left as raised then, so we're used to it. There are hot and cold feeds, electric...

Thanks. I understand you're saying i can use that instead of 22mm ply? I am not sure about that, but will look into it, thanks. Is certainly more readily available than WBP Ply, or at least cheaper

For the pipes and waste etc underneath it. Property is a 1930's bungalow, and the concrete floor is not insulated and unlikely to be particularly thick concrete so i'm not willing to run the waste in the floor with all that entails.

Thanks, yeah, i'm trying to fix prior bodges so i definitely don't want to set it up to fail. Where can I buy 25mm marine ply for a good price? I looked online and it was £90 for a sheet, and then £75 delivery! I looked in B&Q, nothing there, and same for selco.

Hi I'm rebuilding my shower which leaked terribly after having it professionally done in 2018. This time, i'm doing it properly using backer boards (XPS) and tanking on top of those. Belt and braces. Its going onto a solid concrete floor so needs to be elevated. Unfortunately, the mira flight...

Thanks all. So it's a mix of yes and no and maybe haha

Hi Had an induction hob fitted six months ago and it's working fine. It's on 6mm cable fitted by an electrician. I was just reading about regs and 6mm flex is supposed to be crimped, I think? Should I redo this, or leave it? Thanks

Haha thanks noseall and apols to OP for the thread hijack

Thanks, so you just check depth of existing foundations to determine if suitable? It must keep costs down a good bit avoiding ground works. Do you do work in South Wales by chance?

Interesting. Do you ever reuse the dwarf walls? I've got a massive conservatory which has an ancient 1993 circa polycarb roof and I need to do something with it. It's a P shape, approx 10m wide and 3m deep. The dwarf walls are cavity with brick external leaf which is tied to the main house...

Depends on the wood burner model. Mine is 100mm iirc. To your point though its worth leaving space to accommodate a different stove in future.

Bit of a gamble but assuming you can reach the other end of the pipe or inspection chanber bash it through all the way, slc will be soft relatively.

Yep, exactly like that. I followed that video. In fact he misses a step which is in the manual for mine, which is to remove the rubber grommet at the bottom of the condensate drawer. Since I posted I decided to let it run and do it's thing and ignore the drawer, and have run several loads...